CHOICE CANADIAN WHISKIES DEFY HEAVY TAX BURDEN
Distillers are producing terrific offerings — here’s a sampling for sipping pleasure
Ever wonder why Canadian whisky runs behind whiskies from the United States, the United Kingdom, Japan, India, etc.?
In last year’s federal budget, the excise tax was increased two per cent. Our tax rate is 79 per cent higher than the American excise tax. It’s higher than Japan’s. It’s higher than Ireland’s. It’s as high as the government can get away with. Canadian whiskies bring both the distiller and the provincial liquor boards about half the margin the distiller gets exporting the bottles.
This classic case of market distortion is introduced and maintained by your friendly federal government. (It was just as bad under the Tories.) And, of course, the obvious is starting to happen. Foreign investors are buying Canadian brands like Forty Creek and R & R to sell in the American market. The Minhas’ first distillery was in Wisconsin.
That said, Canadian distillers are producing some terrific whiskies. Wiser’s 35-year-old is this year’s award-winning “best Canadian whisky.” There is a nationwide shortage of this stuff. Should you spot any in a back bar, I suggest you have a wee dram while the getting is good.
Rich and Rare (a.k.a. R & R) is an orphan brand. Once a Hiram Walker brand, it has been sold a couple of times, now owned by Sazerac/Buffalo Trace distillery. The whisky is still distilled, aged and bottled in Canada, but new versions show up in the U.S. first.
More than a few fans consider it the equal or better of Forty Creek and Crown Royal for less money. The bouquet is floral with some honey and a bit of citrus zest. The palate is sweet, rich as advertised, with a bit of dried apricot. It’s a nice representative Canadian whisky.
Thirty years ago, Corby’s tried to introduce fine Canadian whiskies to the market but, alas, the sales didn’t measure up and the suite of whiskies that Corby’s named the Whisky Guild was discontinued. To my surprise, they’ve resurrected the recipes and are trying again, despite the fearsome tax load.
Gooderham & Wort’s (a.k.a.
G & W; there’s something about whisky names that demands an ampersand) is a similar whisky at a similar price. The mash bill is the normal four-grain blend. The colour is light amber. The bouquet is slightly sweet. The palate is surprisingly sweet, moving into a creamy-textured, spicy whisky with some great subtle tertiary flavours on the finish.
Pike Creek (named for the aging warehouse) is a surprisingly sweet-tempered whisky and worth any serious drinker’s time. The colour is quite dark for a Canadian whisky, a ruby tinted amber. The bouquet is a bit peppery, with an underlying sweetness. The palate is somewhat fruity, with some of the tertiary oak flavours — vanilla and caramel — coming to the fore. The finish is long and sweet. If you’re a Scotch drinker trying to understand Canadian, this is a great whisky to begin your conversion.
Lot No. 40 is a rye, and this is a whisky with a singular character. The nose reminds me of toasted Winnipeg Rye Bread, with some spice and citrus.
The palate is fruity with lots of peppery spice — nutmeg, caraway, cloves. The finish is long, and slightly alcoholic. (Lot No. 40 is 43 per cent ABV.)
I’m a rye fan, and this one has my vote.
If you’re making cocktails, I’d stick with R & R or G & W, as the slightly subtler character creates a more balanced drink.
CANADIAN WHISKY OF THE WEEK
Lot No. 40 Rye Whisky. $40
OTHER CHOICES:
Pike Creek 10 year Old Canadian Whisky $35
Rich and Rare Canadian Whisky $36
Gooderham & Worts Canadian Whisky $45 Other wine news on Twitter.com/ drbooze