Australian cabernet has certainly come a long way

JAMES ROMANOW Wine One of the most interesting evolutions in the world of wine is taking place in Australia.

Cabernet Sauvignon — for many drinkers still the king of grapes — has a following that just refuses to go away, not least among winemakers Down Under.

The goal is laudable. Keep the tertiary flavours (caramel, vanilla) under control; allow the fruit to sing, but still deliver a dry wine with solid structure. This is a gigantic leap forward from the wines of a decade ago.

The current incarnation has a bouquet almost completely lacking any of the herbal notes — especially green bell pepper — that Cabernet was famous for in the 1980s. There is still a touch of wintergreen and menthol in some bottles. The palate is entirely dry, but still quite fruity.

The texture is medium-weight viscous, not up to the 10W30 standard of Sonoma Zinfandel.

The acidity is apparent — the biggest contrast to American Cabernet Sauvignon — but not intrusive. The tannins are certainly present and accounted for, but not like a young Bordeaux, which is impossible to enjoy without 20 minutes in the blender on frappé. There’s an earthiness grounding the finish, some chocolate flavouring.

All in all, Australian Cabernet Sauvignon made now is an appealing drink. And it is not expensive.

Blass Cabernet Sauvignon is subtitled “Black Cassis,” which pretty much sums up the state of mid-range Australian Cabernet Sauvignon. The tannins here are a bit tougher than average without being overbearing. The acidity I think a touch less. As promised, the dark fruits of cassis and dried plums are more apparent. There is a touch here, though, of tobacco, that last remnant of the green tannins from decades of yore.

This is an excellent red meat wine and for people who like a dry wine, it can work as a cocktail wine, too. (I find the tannins of all Cabernet Sauvignon can be problematic on an empty stomach.)

19 Crimes is a wine with a solid following here. The label trades on the pride/shame that Australians take in their history as a prison colony. It offers outstanding value for the money; however, it is prone to more vintage variation than other Australian labels. Most drinkers seem indifferent, taking it in stride, although I get the feeling sales have dropped off slightly, possibly due to a not terribly interesting 2016 vintage. (It’s equally possible the strong Aussie dollar is undermining market share.)

The bouquet is slightly sweet with preserved fruit aromas followed by a bit of leather and meat. The palate is integrated and well-structured, although the tannins are soft enough to drink now. It’s a fairly young wine, which will appeal more to some drinkers than others, but on the counter it tended to break down faster than both the much older Blass and the Clancy’s.

If you like the concept of blended wines, Clancy’s Red Blend (2015) is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Shiraz and Merlot to up the fruitiness. At this price, it’s a real deal, which is part Peter Lehman’s enduring appeal.

The colour is a bit more crimson than the other two wines.

The nose has more obvious tertiary aromas, primarily of vanilla. There’s some menthol and herbs and a bit of prunes in the palate with a good finish and solid structure.

This is a really nice wine that people who like a bit of oak will find tremendously appealing.