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Hostels get Cushier, with more privacy And perks

All ages now welcome in Europe’s once youth-oriented culture of cheap lodgings

- RICK STEVES Rick Steves (ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.

Many travellers wonder: Youth hostelling … can we still do that? You can.

Hostels are filled with travellers well past their 20s, and age cutoffs are generally a thing of the past. Even the Internatio­nal Youth Hostel Federation has removed the word “youth” from its name and is now known as Hostelling Internatio­nal (HI). If you’re alive, you’re young enough to hostel.

Of course, hostelling originated as a way for young backpacker­s to sleep safely and comfortabl­y without the expense of a hotel. That’s still the idea, but as Europe has grown more affluent, hostels have become cushier: more expensive, but with more privacy and perks. While the cheapest beds are still in big dorms where you may have 10 or more roommates, these days hostels offer smaller rooms (even singles and doubles) and a much better shower-to-bed ratio.

Hostelling is great for solo travellers on a tight budget. While a single hotel room costs nearly the same as a double, in a hostel you pay by the bed. Hostels come with an instant circle of potential new friends from around the world, making it easy to find companions for dinner or sightseein­g. They’re also great for families who want to share one big room and do their own cooking, enjoying meals for the price of groceries.

Many hostels also offer a simple breakfast, serve cheap meals (often in family-style settings) and provide use of a fully equipped kitchen. Travellers can also commune in common areas, whether a spacious lounge or a cosy den stocked with board games and a lending library.

European hostels that belong to the venerable Hostelling Internatio­nal organizati­on are generally big, institutio­nal, clean and well organized, while independen­tly run hostels tend to be more easygoing and colourful (or chaotic and ramshackle, depending on the place). While HI hostels generally segregate travellers into same-sex dorms, independen­t hostels usually have co-ed dorms (and may offer women-only dorms as well).

I’ve hostelled mostly in northern Europe, where places are more comfortabl­e and the savings over hotels more exciting. In any Nordic city, you’ll find clean, modern, centrally located hostels with private rooms and bathrooms, from the huge, harboursid­e, 16-storey Danhostel Copenhagen City to Stockholm’s Langholmen Hostel, a former prison in a lovely park on a small island, with converted jail cells as rooms.

You’ll find some unforgetta­ble options. The AF Chapman Hostel in Stockholm lets you sleep in a restored ship cabin on a permanentl­y moored 100-year-old schooner. Helsinki’s Eurohostel comes with a free morning sauna. And Reykjavik’s Galaxy Pod Hostel offers a futuristic feel: Guests get their own space-age sleeping capsule, which offers a little privacy and space to lock up valuables.

Some of the best hostels are in remote settings. For instance, the St. Briavels Castle hostel, in a quiet village on the Wales/ England border, lets you sleep in an 800-year-old Norman castle. Chalet Martin in Gryon, Switzerlan­d is a rustic retreat with a few characteri­stic private rooms (including a tent with a bed) and stunning mountain views. At the Eplet Bed and Apple hostel, in Solvorn, Norway, you’ll enjoy a country home with friendly hosts, a raspberry-and-apple farm, and breathtaki­ng fiord views.

One of my best travel memories is of hostelling along the Rhine River in Germany, in one of Europe’s great youth hostels: Stahleck Castle. Imagine the thrill of spending just $40 a night for a bed in a 12th-century castle on a hilltop — 350 steps above the town of Bacharach — and ending your day with a drink on your own Rhine-view balcony.

Travellers of all ages should consider hostelling.

 ??  ?? At Stahleck Castle in Germany, travellers sleep in a 12th-century castle on a hilltop above the town of Bacharach, with views of the Rhine River. RICK STEVES
At Stahleck Castle in Germany, travellers sleep in a 12th-century castle on a hilltop above the town of Bacharach, with views of the Rhine River. RICK STEVES

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