Spring ahead with spaetzle primavera

Springtime is the right time for pasta primavera, which is, after all, the Italian word for spring.

My take on this classic swaps out the traditional Italian pasta for the fresh egg pasta called spaetzle, a kind of soft noodle that’s widespread throughout southern Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Hungary and the Italian province of South Tyrol.

Spaetzle dough is about the consistency of a thick pancake batter, which means it’s much more liquid than typical pasta dough. You can make it with electric beaters or by hand.

The only requirement is using the right tool for the job: a spaetzle maker. The device looks like a metal washboard with holes on it, topped by a small open box made of metal.

You set the “washboard” over the pot of boiling water and pour the batter into the little box. The dough drips through the holes as you slowly move the metal box back and forth along the washboard to cut the strands of pasta. SPAETZLE PRIMAVERA

Serves: 4-6

1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) kosher salt plus extra for salting the water

1 lb (454 g) asparagus

1 lb (454 g) shelled fresh or defrosted frozen peas

8 oz (226 g) assorted whole mushrooms, halved or quartered, if large

2 tbsp (30 ml) vegetable oil 2 cups (500 ml) chicken or vegetable broth

1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream 2 cups (500 ml) all-purpose flour

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1 oz (28 g) grated Parmigianoreggiano, plus extra for garnish Chopped fresh dill for garnish

1. Bring a large pot of boiling salted water to a boil. Break or cut off the bottom tough part of the asparagus and, if it is thicker than 1/3-inch (7-mm), peel it from right underneath the tip all the way to the bottom of the stem.

2. Working in a few batches, add the asparagus to the water and simmer until they are al dente but not cooked through

(1 minute for thin asparagus and 2 minutes for thick), transfer them to a bowl of ice and water to chill.

3. When they are chilled, pat them dry and slice them crosswise, at an angle, 1/2-inch (1.25-cm) thick. Set aside.

4. If using fresh peas, add them to the water and simmer them until al dente, about 2 minutes. Use a strainer to remove them from the water and set them aside. If using defrosted frozen peas, do not cook them at this point (they were already blanched before they were frozen).

5. In a large skillet cook the mushrooms in the oil over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until they are golden, about 8 minutes. Add the chicken broth and cream and bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and simmer until thickened, about 5 minutes. Set aside.

6. In an electric mixer stir together the flour and 1/2 tsp (2.5 ml) salt, add the eggs and 1 cup (250 ml) water and beat until the mixture is smooth. The consistency should be like that of thick pancake batter. If it is thicker, add additional water, a little at a time, until it reaches the desired consistency.

7. Place the spaetzle maker over the pot of boiling water and slowly pour the batter into the box, letting it drip down into the water. Boil for a few minutes (taste a piece of pasta to see if it is just al dente).

8. Strain the spaetzle and add it to the skillet along with the asparagus, peas and cheese. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring, until just heated through. Add salt and pepper to taste and serve right away topped with additional cheese, if desired, and the dill.