Saskatoon StarPhoenix

Cinnamon buns beckon at cafe in St. Walburg

Homemade baking legendary in historic home

- JENN SHARP

Saskatchew­an is full of hidden food gems. Take Route 26 Coffee House, a cafe tucked away in St. Walburg, for example.

Peggy and Bert Cowan converted their historic house into a cafe that opened last year. Her homemade baking has become legendary in the village, especially her cinnamon buns.

Route 26 also serves espressoba­sed coffees and light lunches. Everything from the fig compote on the turkey croissant, to the coleslaw on the pulled pork focaccia sandwich is homemade.

“It just tastes better that way,” said Peggy.

The Cowans live above the cafe area, which is comprised of smaller rooms that ask visitors

to linger. The couple chose not to modernize the house’s historic aspects and it was to the cafe’s benefit.

Warm wooden tones are prominent in the space that artfully links cafe culture to Saskatchew­an history. Antiques decorate the rooms, where guests can choose between window tables or cosy corners. An upstairs deck and three outdoor patios — one of which has a pond and waterfall — make the place eclectic and inviting.

All the welcoming decor in the world would be for naught if it weren’t for the Cowans’ hospitalit­y. Route 26 has cemented its place in St. Walburg as a community gathering place.

The Cowans are grandparen­ts. Peggy said she wanted to have a

place that would make parents with young ones feel comfortabl­e.

“It’s so hard for women to get together when they have little kids,” she said.

Ample high chairs, toys and a change table, along with a book borrowing area all help that vision. An outdoor, fenced-in kid zone with a patio area means parents can sip a latte and chat with a friend while their kids play.

“(Parents) appreciate it,” said Peggy.

To take the convenienc­e factor one step further, Peggy runs a takeout/drive-thru window with a pre-order option.

“Again, I was thinking of moms and how hard it is to stop for a coffee if you’ve got kids in a

car seat. You really think twice about getting out (of the car) when it’s -20 C; is that coffee worth it?”

Bert is a talented carpenter. His handiwork is on display at the outdoor bar, which he built using reclaimed 100-year-old barn wood. The wood for the bar top incorporat­es smoothly sanded holes where horses were once tied.

Bert makes cedar furniture using the wood he salvages from historic barns. An Artisan’s Garage on the yard displays his farmhouse-style collection, handsome reminders of Saskatchew­an’s agricultur­al roots.

St. Walburg is known for the annual Wild Blueberry Festival, but Route 26 makes the village in west central Saskatchew­an worthy of a visit in the off-season, too. The cafe is licensed to serve alcohol and will be hosting wine tastings, along with murder mystery and game nights, throughout the winter.

Route 26 Coffee House is located at 229 1st Avenue in St. Walburg.

Sharp is a freelance writer based in Saskatoon. Follow her on Twitter and Instagram @flatoutfoo­dsk.

 ?? JENN SHARP ?? Route 26 Coffee House features light lunches, espresso-based coffees and home-baking. The cinnamon buns are a local favourite.
JENN SHARP Route 26 Coffee House features light lunches, espresso-based coffees and home-baking. The cinnamon buns are a local favourite.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada