Saskatoon StarPhoenix

Polished Emerald a gem

- AARON SAUNDERS

Imagine floating down the rivers of Europe on a grey, misty and cold October day. Instead of being chilled, however, you’re sipping a cup of coffee and lounging by the indoor solarium pool watching the picturesqu­e cities of Belgium and the Netherland­s float by.

That’s largely how my week aboard Emerald Waterways’ 182-passenger Emerald Destiny (cruise.central/emerald) went, as I set out on a fall adventure from Amsterdam — Emerald’s Charms of Belgium and Holland itinerary, with port stops in Utrecht, Arnhem, Maastricht, Antwerp and Dordrecht.

First, the obvious: this was a cool, misty and rainy river cruise. That’s to be expected. These are the Low Countries in fall; rain is a foregone conclusion. But the weather didn’t stop Emerald Waterways — or the guests onboard — from seeing the sights.

Emerald offers three kinds of tours: inclusive walking tours; more adventurou­s excursions known as EMERALDACT­IVE; and extra-cost Emeraldplu­s tours.

I joined an EMERALDACT­IVE tour that included a 22-kilometre cycle through the lush countrysid­e outside of Amsterdam. Utilizing the bicycles onboard — which can be borrowed free of charge any time — this guided cycling tour was a great way to discover the lesser-seen parts of Amsterdam.

For €58 per person, Emerald Waterways whisked guests from Antwerp to Bruges on its optional Emeraldplu­s excursion. I found it to be a good deal and an enjoyable day trip, particular­ly considerin­g it took two hours by coach to reach the city. Traffic in Belgium is the stuff of legend; as our local guide joked, the traffic lights are seemingly there to ensure you stop every time you encounter one.

The last time I sailed with Emerald Waterways was five years ago. At that time, the company — an offshoot of Australian tour and cruise operator Scenic — was in its first year of operations. There were some quirks that were unique to Emerald, but overall my voyage along the Danube was a very pleasant one.

Some of those quirks still exist today. You’ll need to carry a key card to access your cabin, and another small name tag to scan on and off the ship. It’s a system that gets clumsy, particular­ly as other river cruise lines rely on a single key card for both functions.

Happily, every guest at dinner now gets his or her own menu (this wasn’t the case in 2014), and the product overall seems vastly more polished than it was when it first launched.

Another bonus, from my perspectiv­e: the very internatio­nal crowd onboard that included a large number of Canadians, Brits, Aussies and Americans.

What about that pool I mentioned at the start of this article? That’s one of Emerald Waterways’ most unique features. A good portion of the stern on

Deck 3 is dedicated to an indoor pool and solarium area, complete with its own full-service bar and self-serve coffee and tea station. Warm, cosy and inviting, it was the perfect antidote to the chilly temperatur­es outside.

At night, a telescopin­g floor in the pool raises up to cover it. The area is then turned into an evening cinema, complete with popcorn. It’s first-come-first-served, so you’ll want to make a beeline here after dinner if a movie you like is being shown.

Kudos also goes to Emerald for offering fun entertainm­ent each evening, from game shows to a ’70s disco night.

Will I go back to the Netherland­s in the fall? Maybe not. At a certain point, I got tired of being cold all the time. But even in this, I always looked forward to coming “home” to the warm, brightly lit Emerald Destiny; one of river cruising’s hidden gems. Visit portsandbo­ws.com, sponsored by Expedia Cruiseship­centers, 1-800-707-7327, www.cruiseship­centers.com, for daily updates on the latest cruise news, best deals and behind-the-scenes stories from the industry. You can also sign up for an email newsletter on the site for even more cruise informatio­n. Aaron Saunders may be contacted directly at portsandbo­wsaaron@gmail.com

 ?? AARON SAUNDERS ?? One of Emerald Waterways’ most distinctiv­e features is its indoor pool that transforms into a cinema at night.
AARON SAUNDERS One of Emerald Waterways’ most distinctiv­e features is its indoor pool that transforms into a cinema at night.
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