HE­ROES OF MENSWEAR

Tiger of Swe­den’s menswear de­signer has had enough of track pants. And he’s do­ing some­thing about it

Sharp - - CONTENTS - By Bradley White­house

Tiger of Swe­den’s An­dreas Gran thinks it’s time to rein­vent the suit — and to stop fol­low­ing trends.

CON­SIDER HEN­RIK Lundqvist and Alexan­der Skars­gard. One’s an NHL MVP, the other a Hol­ly­wood A-lis­ter, but they have a cou­ple things in com­mon. First, they’re both ex­cep­tion­ally well dressed. Sec­ond, they’re both Swedish. Ac­cord­ing to Tiger of Swe­den’s menswear de­signer An­dreas Gran, that’s no co­in­ci­dence.

“Swedish men have never been afraid of be­ing seen as un-mas­cu­line just be­cause they like to dress well,” he says. “I be­lieve that since we are a very equal coun­try, this is some­thing that makes peo­ple dare to be them­selves. It is re­ally mas­cu­line to be your­self.”

Un­like his dash­ing com­pa­tri­ots, though, Gran prefers to stay out of the lime­light. When asked what he’d like to be known for, he says, “To be known is not my drive. My drive is to make great prod­ucts.” And this fall, he’s fo­cused on get­ting men to dress up more.

“It’s time to get el­e­gant again,” he says. “No more track pants.”

To find his fresh vi­sion, Gran’s taken a page from the sar­to­rial play­book of the 1960s, which, as far as he’s con­cerned, was menswear’s best era. The re­sult is a col­lec­tion with higher waist­lines, wider lapels, and sharp shoul­ders, all of which, Gran says, “re­ally en­hance the male physique.” Other no­tice­able changes in this sea­son’s col­lec­tion are the jacket lengths (longer) and the trouser sil­hou­ettes (looser). The lat­ter style was om­nipresent on the fall run­ways as the pen­du­lum swings back from the slim, short suits that have been the stan­dard for years now. “The suit has looked the same for such a long time,” he says. “Let go of the low-cut pants.”

WHAT SHOULD EV­ERY MAN HAVE IN HIS WARDROBE?

A pair of well-tai­lored black wool pants, a good-qual­ity white shirt; cash­mere crew neck sweaters in navy, camel, and grey mélange; a black leather biker jacket; a per­fect blazer; a car coat; a clas­sic wool coat; and a pair of washed jeans.

WHAT’S ONE TREND YOU’RE TIRED OF?

I’m tired of trends in gen­eral. Wear clas­sic, high-qual­ity clothes and you’ll al­ways look good.

WHAT DE­SIGN­ERS DO YOU MOST AD­MIRE?

Raf Si­mons, Hel­mut Lang, and Mi­uc­cia Prada.

IF YOU WEREN’T A DE­SIGNER, WHAT WOULD YOU BE?

A psy­chol­o­gist, I think. Or I’d run a ho­tel or a res­tau­rant.

WHO, LIV­ING OR DEAD, WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO DRESS?

Don­ald Duck needs a nice pair of pants!

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