How do I get into mechanical watches?
AIt would be fair to say that the mechanical watch has been battered over the years. First the quartz revolution kicked them in the gut, clock-addled phones stuffed that bejewelled wristwear into a box, then smartwatches hammered the nail in. But the proper watch never truly died.
It is easy to spend stupid money on a mechanical watch. Those tight-wound springs, teeny screws, and intricate movements require a level of craftsmanship far beyond machineassembled digitals and, at the higher end, the market commands that a ridiculous collection of luxury materials be glued onto every watch. But this doesn’t have to be the case. Affordable timepieces like Seiko’s venerable 5 series (from around £65, though aim to spend £150) and Stührling’s £100-ish range, which often come with alluring naked movements, mean taking your first step into the game need not cost you the foot you stepped with.
When you’re ready to upgrade, you’re really not short of options. £370 will buy you the absolutely gorgeous Torgoen T33 403, while the Victorinox Infantry 241520, for around £550, gets you a delectable Swiss movement in a rugged case. You’ll want an Omega, of course, but you won’t want to spend upwards of £3,800 on a Seamaster chronograph, unless you do, in which case Guru will happily take some of that money off your hands.
GaGu has a few catch-all tips before you open that wallet, so listen up. Don’t get a leather strap, because it won’t last. Try on watches first, to find the right size for your dainty wrist. Look to Japan if you want cheap, decent timepieces. Don’t pick up a fake – you’ve got no guarantee of movement or build quality, and you’ll have to explain yourself to gawping wrist-watchers. Finally, prepare for maintenance costs; replacement straps, glass and services aren’t cheap, and you’ll need them if you want to keep that investment valuable.
the market commands that a ridicul ous collection of lu xury materials be glu ed onto every watch