MONTREAL

The Culinary Traveller's Guide

Neighbourhoods

OLD MONTREAL Lining the edge of the St Lawrence River is Vieux Montreal with its cobblestone streets, picturesque squares, old-world architecture, quais, cafés and small parks. Amongst them you'll also find intimate fine-dining, such as Pastel, once a café, now a playful small-plates gem. Charming, although narrow, Rue St Paul is where you'll find many artisans, while Rue de la Commune is a breezy waterfront street teeming with cyclists, wandering tourists and Cirque du Soleil patrons.

DOWNTOWN Rue Ste-Catherine is the busy hub of downtown with big-name fashion brands and department stores. But along Notre-Dame Ouest and Rue Charlevoix is a somewhat secluded eating and drinking scene. For example, Restaurant Candide, hidden in the back half of a church in the suburb called Little Burgundy, is a unique fine-dining experience.

LE PLATEAU MONT-ROYAL This is a hip area for eating out (only second in “coolness” to Mile End and Mile Ex), with a range of restaurants for all meals of the day, although if you eat at the famous Au Pied du Cochon, you may not need any other meals! You'll also find a healthy amount of BYOB bistros and big plates along Le Jardins de Panos.

MILE END, MILE EX and LITTLE ITALY Looking to do some culinary shopping? Little Italy is the best area for kitchen items. These neighbourhoods are also where you'll find some really unique, although not necessarily pricey, bistros, lounges and many cafés. Hip new Mile Ex is considered Montreal's most creative area, with hidden bars, brasseries and many boutique eateries. Within the few-block radius of Mile End you'll find a global variety of foods: from Italian pasta shops; to Jewish sweets stores; to Greek vegetarian bistros and even North African food. It's also where you'll find St Viateur street, sometimes referred to as “sesame street” for the trail of sesame seeds that lead to the famous 24-hour bagel shops of the same name.

Markets

MARCHÉ JEAN-TALON This is the city's largest food market, with several hundred stalls selling all kinds of fresh produce, and offering many taste tests! There are also several delis and cafés where you can get sandwiches, crêpes and other meals. 7075 Ave Casgrain, 7 am–6 pm Mon, Wed and Sat; to 8 pm Thu and Fri; to 5 pm Sun. MARCHÉ ATWATER You'll find this market on the banks of the Canal de Lachine. Inside the vaulted hall are high-end delicatessens and specialty food shops, outside are various other vendors. 138 Ave Atwater, 7 am–6 pm Mon-Wed; to 7 pm Thu; to 8 pm Fri; to 5 pm Sat and Sun.

MARCHÉ BONSECOURS Built in 1847, Montreal's oldest public market sold meats and fresh produce right up until 1963. Although you won't find fresh ingredients here today, the neoclassical heritage building is still an edifice to be admired. It now houses several cafés, and boutique shops selling arts, crafts and fashion pieces. In warmer months a number of al fresco restaurants take over the front façade at 350 Saint-Paul Est. www.marchebonsecours.qc.ca

All of Montreal's markets are open year-round. For a complete listing of Montreal's farmers' markets see www.marchepublicsmtl.com

Kitchen Stores

LES TOUILLEURS 152 Avenue Laurier Ouest. QUINCAILLERIE DANTE 6851 St-Dominique Street.