The Chronicle Herald (Provincial)
Perfect pairing
A Tuscan-style pork dish meets an amazingly aromatic pasta
Do you ever wonder what the medieval food scene was like in Italy? What were the Tuscans eating? Is it still similar to what we see today?
When I had the brief pleasure to live and apprentice there, it was my first real experience with culture shock. I had never been on a plane before and I landed in a village where no one really spoke any English. I found solace in being surrounded by olive groves, vineyards, and the peculiarity of this city girl waking up to a rooster's crowing.
I went to Tuscany because I was deeply interested in the medieval cuisine of the region. Wild boar, dried fruits, the tang of balsamic vinegar and the mysterious spices of the spice route created some singular Tuscan dishes that are still enjoyed to this day. I am taking inspiration from a braised wild boar dish I learned to make in the restaurant where I apprenticed.
TUSCAN-STYLE PORK MEDALLIONS
Created By Chef Ilona Daniel This recipe serves 4-6. 2 pork tenderloins, silverskin removed and cut into
1.5” thick round
3 Tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil 2 shallots finely sliced
2 cloves garlic, sliced
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
2 Tbsp whole grain mustard
1 sprig fresh rosemary
1 cup chicken/beef stock
1/2 cup dried figs, sliced thinly Salt and Pepper to taste
3 Tbsp butter Over medium-high heat, sear the salt and pepper seasoned pork tenderloin in the olive oil. After 3 minutes, flip the medallions over to sear the second side. While the second side is searing, add in the shallots and the garlic to soften along-side the meat.
Next, add in the remainder of the ingredients, except for the butter which will be used to finish the sauce. Turn the heat down to medium and continue to cook the meat for another 2 minutes. After the 2 minutes, flip the pork over. Once the sauce gets to a consistency similar to gravy, take the pan off of the heat and remove the rosemary sprig. Swirl in the butter, stirring constantly to create a homogenized, shiny sauce.
ON THE SIDE
To round out the meal, pasta is always in good fashion. Italian by Night is an authentic Italian restaurant in a historic Saint John setting.
Chef Michelle Hooton is a restauranteur, cook and blogger whose passion for Italian food has spanned across her gastronomic career. She shares this amazingly aromatic pasta dish that pairs well with my Tuscan-style pork dish.
“This is my favourite time of year in the garden,” says Hooton.
“The trees and shrubs are heavily laden with blossoms or buds waiting to burst. All of the perennials are fat and happy as they wait to put on their show. The best thing about gardening is the anticipation. Waiting for each flower's glory to grace our farm. My herb garden is tucked in close to the farm house making it lovely and warm for my herbs to grow. As soon as the new growth appears, I carefully snip enough herbs to make this delicious harbinger of spring.”
PASTA WITH FRESH HERBS AND BLOSSOMS
Created by Chef Michelle Hooton This recipe makes 4 servings. 3/4 cup extra olive oil, more for drizzling
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1 cup of mixed herb leaves like parsley, chervil, basil, tarragon, thyme, and oregano 1/4 cup butter
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
250 grams dried spaghetti
1 cup grated parmigiano-reggiano edible flowers for garnish such as violas, pansies, chive blossoms etc.
1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.
2. Meanwhile, place a large skillet over medium-low heat and warm the olive oil and butter until the butter is melted.
3. Add the garlic and cook gently, just until the garlic becomes fragrant, then remove from the heat. Do not brown the garlic.
4. Meanwhile, wash and mince the herbs. I always leave the tiniest leaves whole because they're so pretty.
5. Cook pasta until al dente.
6. Reserve 1/2 cup of the pasta cooking water, then drain pasta
7. Return the skillet to medium high heat, add the drained pasta, chopped herbs and ¼ cup reserved pasta water and toss until the sauce becomes emulsified.
8. Season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper, and serve with grated parmigiano-reggiano