It’s time to ride, maintain and repair your bike
Before the coronavirus restrictions on large groups, Garry Norkum, owner of Cyclepath in Kelowna, invited members of the Okanagan Slow and Steady Hikers (Meetup.com) to a free bike clinic at his 2169 Springfield Rd. business.
Norkum, who has taught a threeevening cycling clinic at George Elliot Secondary School in Lake Country for more than 10 years, initiated a series of clinics with Meetup groups last year and repeated them earlier this month.
“The more knowledge we can impart and share with other people, the better your experience will be cycling,” said Norkum who is celebrating 25 years in business.
“I think it’s an excellent sport. Especially as you get older, it’s easier on the body. It’s not like running or some of these more jarring sports or activities. Bikes have improved over the years so the shifting is easier, the bikes are lighter weight and there are so many different types of bikes.”
Here is a point-form summary of his tips for bike riding, maintenance and repair tips (to be continued):
• The best pedalling cadence is at least 60 strokes (or revolutions) per minute, at least once per second. The goal is to choose a gear from many, many gears that will maintain the same workload on your body — not the same speed — regardless of the terrain, whether you are going up or down. “It’s better for the bike; it’s better for your knees; it’s better for your body. And it works much more efficiently,” says Norkum.
• Most cyclists don’t pedal fast enough. The key when approaching and starting to climb uphill is to downshift before pedalling becomes too difficult — “shifting under load.” Your chain can come off or it can snap a chain. And it’s very hard on the drivechain. When approaching a hill, downshift, downshift, downshift.”
• You are probably going to use the middle gear (of a three-ring chain ring) on the front most of the time, going up and down on the seven-, eight- or nine-ring cassette in the middle of the rear wheel. To remember which shifter is which: right rear. It’s the same for brake levers.
• To minimize the angle of the chain between the front and rear gears: when using the low gear in the front, stay in the lower half of the rear gears (the large rings). When you are using the high gear in the front, use the top half of the rear gears.
It can be confusing since the small gear in the front (No. 1 or granny gear) is for easy low speed and the large gear (No. 3) is for high speed. In the rear, it is the reverse: the small gear goes very fast for high speed and large gear goes slow for lower speed.
• Raising the stem (which holds the handlebars) will shift more weight from your hands to your bum. Road racers can use a small narrow saddle because a lot of their weight is on their hands. When you sit more upright, you are likely to need a larger saddle. Bigger is not necessarily better, though; it depends on your sitbones. Some stems are adjustable (about $25-$30) and saddles can be as inexpensive as $35-$45. That’s usually the two major items that shops change.
• Saddles are mounted on a rail so they can be adjusted back and forth as well as angled. A level can be used to ensure the saddle is perfectly flat. Saddles with a slot or soft spot in the middle eliminate pressure on that part of the body.
• Don’t wear underwear under your padded bike shorts; it takes away from the features of the shorts. You get what you pay for: $40 versus $100.
• It should be easy to pull your shoes out of toeclips if you use those. You are physically restrained with those equipped with straps and can/will fall over with a sudden stop.
• All metal pedals, especially those with raised bumps, are better than plastic which can be slippery.
• The ball of your foot (wide part at the front) should be over the pedal.
• Too many cyclists have their saddle adjusted too low; a half-inch can be critical. If you raise your toes with your leg straight, your heel should clear the pedal as you swing the leg forward, says Norkum. Some advise knee only slightly bent when your foot is at the lowest part of the pedal stroke.
• If your saddle is too high, you can have hip issues. Your bum will be rocking back and forth sideways, says Norkum.
• Once your saddle is at the correct height, scratch the post next to the quick release to mark the spot. Magic Marker wears off.
• Your bike bag should include: a spare tube, set of three tire levers, repair kit with glueless patches (take up less space), CO2 inflator and two cartridges, tire marker, surgical gloves (to keep your hands clean as well as warm when chilly outside), small wetwipes for cleanups, backup pump with correct nozzle for Shraeder (old-style, automotive) and Presta tire valves, metric Allan key set, chain repair tool. and small amount of money.
• Tubes are porous so they leak. Check tire pressure regularly: hybrids once a week, road tires every two-four days.
• Once a flat tube is removed, hole found and marked (tire still on rim), place the tube valve next to the valve hole in the rim. Cup your hand over the tube outside the tire tread, and slide your hands and tube around the tire and rim until you get to the marked hole in the tube. That’s where (on the tire) you will hopefully find whatever caused the flat, eg. nail, glass or especially in the South Okanagan, a cactus thorn. Feel with your fingers inside the tire as well.
• Some tires are thicker and puncture-resistant. You can also use Slime Tube Sealant to seal any leaks as they occur. However, as slime ages, it can ball up and you can hear it rolling around. Then, it’s time for a new tube or fresh Slime inside a tubeless tire. Slime can also be used in dirt bikes, wheelbarrows and riding mowers for up to two years.
• When using a new tube, inflate it slightly which makes it easier to insert under the tire. If you push the edges of the tire deep into the rim, you can usually roll the tire edge onto the rim with both your hands, all the way around, without using the tire levers. If you leave the tire out in the sun for 10 minutes, it becomes more pliable.
• If the valve is crooked after inflating, let a little air out and move the tire around the rim enough to straighten the valve out.
• When a tube is underinflated, the tire can move around.
• When removing the rear tire and rim from the bike, it will be easier (the chain will be loose) if the chain is on the smallest gear at the front and the smallest gear at the rear. Then you know to place the chain back on the smallest gear. Pull the gear-change mechanism to the rear as you slide the tire and rim back out of and into the axle slots. The bracket on rim brakes (not disc brakes) must be undone to get the tire and rim on and off. So don’t forget to re-attach it and check that brake pads are aligned properly with the rim. Toe in slightly can reduce or eliminate squealing.
• The quick release on the axle should be pressed down with the palm of your hand. Once the bike is upright and back on the ground, undo the quick release and retighten it with the pressure of two fingers. Check that the tire and rim are centred in the brake area.