The Georgia Straight

Food

New restaurant boasts succulent butter chicken

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There aren’t many purely Delhi-style restaurant­s north of the Fraser River, and you can tell the difference by the curries. They’re heavier and taste more homemade than those prepared in other parts of India.

The newest in Vancouver is the Delhi-6 Indian Bistro in the former Thai House space at 1766 West 7th Avenue. On two recent visits, the butter chicken was absolutely extraordin­ary in its succulentl­y spiced bright orange sauce. The cauliflowe­r in the aloo gobi in the first meal was slightly overcooked, but not terribly so. That wasn’t a problem with the biryani served with butter chicken on the second trip.

Here’s something to keep in mind with Delhi food: the naan is sometimes topped with a greasy sheen. If that’s not your thing, ask for it without this coating. Unlike in almost every other local Indian restaurant, the naan comes in individual baskets for each person at the table. And the service is exceptiona­l.

It also looks like some thought has gone into Delhi-6’s interior. While the layout is very similar to the old Thai House—with the floorto-ceiling windows, booths on the outside, and tables in the middle— the new dark-brown seats and artful hanging lanterns make for a far comfier vibe.

But this elegant décor comes at a price: the meals here are more expensive than at less snazzy Indian joints around town.

The restaurant’s name will remind Bollywood fans of the 2009 movie Delhi-6, starring Abhishek Bachchan and Sonam Kapoor.

The number 6 in the film title— and the bistro—reflects the postal district of Old Delhi, known as Delhi 6. It’s home to a famous huge bazaar where some of the restaurant’s furnishing­s were sourced. The market square in this neighbourh­ood, Chandni Chowk, was designed by the daughter of the Mogul emperor Shah Jahan, who created the Taj Mahal.

And, of course, the number 6 also matches the final numbers of the restaurant’s street address in Vancouver. How quaint is that?

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