PIEDEMONT WINES
Wines from the Piedmont region can offer hefty alcohol content and lofty acidity
One of my very favourite things about having a career revolving around wine is that I never stop learning. Every tasting I attend, every meeting I have with a winemaker, and every trip in which I participate offers an opportunity to discover something new.
During the past couple of weeks, I’ve travelled through the Piedmont region in northern Italy, and the learning curve has had quite the arc. When I travel to a wine region for the first time, I always have a certain set of expectations, and I feel quite confident about them. Without fail, I return from my trip having gleaned something unexpected and inspired by experiences I’ve enjoyed. This week, a couple take-aways from Italy I didn’t see coming.
I LOVE Ruché!
Ruché is an indigenous redgrape variety with origins around the town of Asti in Piedmont. There are some who theorize it came from Burgundy, in France, a couple hundred years ago, but the common refrain I’ve encountered is that it is indeed native to Italy.
The grape makes elegant wines, generally with plenty of red fruit like cherries, raspberries, and strawberries, often mingling with notes of nutmeg and ginger. There is a finesse with the variety; however, it usually carries some hefty alcohol, upwards of 14 or 15 percent. The fruit holds it in well; from the range
I tasted, there were only a couple that harboured a pinch of heat on the finish. I can see where there’s a possibility of Burgundian origins, as the grape definitely has some Pinot Noir–esque qualities, but I also see some Grenache-like characteristics in it.
Do check it out. There are a few available around Vancouver, but the easiest one to track down is Gatto Pierfrancesco Ruché di Castagnole Monferrato 2015 ($29.99 at B.C. Liquor Stores), which will pair well with mushroom risotto or a nice, juicy steak.
WE SHOULD GIVE Barbera more
credit.
When most wine enthusiasts get a hankering for a quality red from Piedmont, more often than not they’ll head towards Barolos or Barbarescos made from Nebbiolo.
Although there is plenty of Barbera in the region, it’s just never had the clout carried by the others.
I spent a few days in Asti—the region where it is assumed the variety originated—and had the opportunity to delve into many Barberas and to get a good handle on them.
These are serious wines, full of red and black berry fruit, with a hint of a wild-mushroom note, low tannins, and buoyant acidity. That acidity quenches a thirst and makes for a very foodfriendly wine.
One thing I noted was that I couldn’t discern soil type from the various vineyards where the grapes grow. Most Barbera vineyards are situated on either calcareous clay or sandy soils, but the variety doesn’t, seemingly, express much nuance between them.
With varieties like Riesling or Pinot Noir, there can be considerable differences in a wine’s profile dependent on the soil, but as far as I can tell, Barbera doesn’t express its terroir as loudly. No matter; the fruit is delicious.
That lofty acidity tags along well with good fruit concentration, which also makes Barberas well suited for aging. Oak integrates well with the grape, too, and it can frame the fruit quite well.
When a few journalists were discussing why Barbera seems to play second fiddle to Nebbiolo, a colleague mentioned that perhaps with the Asti region being more famous for Moscato wines (“Moscato d’asti” has always rolled off the tongue rather easily), it’s possible that many view the region as a place focused on cheap and cheerful wine not worthy of too much consideration.
Whatever the reason, it would be unfair to shrug off the Barberas of the area. There appears to be a renewed focus on elevating the profile of the variety, and it makes sense to do so in this place of the grape’s provenance. Nearby Alba will always have Nebbiolo, but Asti should have no problem making Barbera shine.
It is a wine that can stand on its own, but it definitely hits its stride with dishes hailing from the region. Think things like pork agnolotti or ravioli with brown butter and sage, charcuterie, or anything involving white truffles.
Arguably the best thing about the variety not getting the credit it deserves is that we can still find some killer deals on the stuff around town.
Ricossa Barbera d’asti 2014 is $15.29 at B.C. Liquor Stores. This is all the more reason to get to know the grape and the region more intimately.