Add pink and orange hues to Thanks­giv­ing

The Bot­tle Kur­tis Kolt

The Georgia Straight - - Food -

All cards on the ta­ble: I’d love for those read­ing this to break out of their com­fort zone when it comes to wine with Thanks­giv­ing din­ner.

Yeah, that Pinot Noir will likely work well, or a favourite Chardon­nay will be nice and comfy, but why not start a fresh tra­di­tion and branch out to some­thing new? This week, I’m of­fer­ing four lively rec­om­men­da­tions to ac­com­pany your turkey, stuff­ing, pota­toes, and fix­ings. Whether it’s some­thing in the “nat­u­ral wine” cat­e­gory, a lit­tle rosé (which is great any time of year), or your first ven­ture into the fledg­ling orange-wine cat­e­gory, ev­ery­thing here should suit your ta­ble well.


(Veneto, Italy; 1.5 litres, $43 to $54, pri­vate liquor stores) When you’re track­ing this wine down at places like Lib­erty

Wine Mer­chants on Com­mer­cial

Drive or Kit­si­lano

Wine Cel­lar, your eyes aren’t de­ceiv­ing you. This de­li­cious, de­li­cious bot­tle is only avail­able in a 1.5-litre, or mag­num, for­mat. I’m not com­plain­ing, as it has the po­ten­tial to be my next house pour. This north­ern Ital­ian white is made from the area’s in­dige­nous Gar­ganega va­ri­ety, which may be more fa­mil­iar to some as the main grape to be made into Soave wines. Here, the grape is han­dled sim­ply, as de­clared on the back la­bel: “Spon­ta­neously fer­mented grapes, from vines grown in vol­canic soils us­ing nat­u­ral meth­ods. Un­fil­tered wine, with­out added sul­fites.” What’s not de­clared on the back la­bel? This wine is freakin’ de­light­ful!

Think ap­ple cider with added com­po­nents of Chardon­nay, peach skin, and lemon balm. Ridicu­lously juicy and glug­gable. You and your guests will be thank­ful it only clocks in at 12 per­cent al­co­hol, so it can be en­joyed through­out the evening.


(Trentino–alto Adige, Italy; $72 to $77, pri­vate liquor stores) Elisabetta Foradori has con­tin­ued her fam­ily’s legacy of qual­ity wine and ded­i­ca­tion to her­itage grape va­ri­eties by ex­press­ing them as au­then­ti­cally as pos­si­ble via or­ganic and bio­dy­namic farm­ing and min­i­mal in­ter­ven­tion in the win­ery. Case in point, we have here the area’s in­dige­nous white Nosiola va­ri­ety, grown in a tiny two-hectare vine­yard on cal­care­ous clay soil in the foothills of the Dolomite moun­tain range. Mac­er­ated with the grape skins (that’s the “orange” part) in clay am­phorae for eight months, the wine is then aged in aca­cia-and-oak casks—not to im­part flavour, but just to en­sure it’s framed per­fectly. There is a lev­ity here of lemon peel, orange blos­som, and full-bloomed jas­mine. A salin­ity, like that of oys­ter shell or river rock, is also con­sis­tent with each sip, and a good wash of lemon­ade car­ries ev­ery­thing well. On the palate, that skin con­tact gives it just a touch of grip, per­fect for latch­ing on to big­ger flavours that your Thanks­giv­ing dishes may har­bour. I ab­so­lutely adore this wine and have most re­cently found it at Kit­si­lano Wine Cel­lar.


(Pays d’oc, France; $12 to $16, pri­vate liquor stores) This is the pink wine for a crowded ta­ble, full of rev­elry and cheer. A crowd-pleas­ing pour of man­darin or­anges, Meyer lemons, and Key limes, the blend of Cin­sault, Gre­nache, Syrah, and Mer­lot is crisp and lively, with an abun­dance of mouth­wa­ter­ing acid­ity and a pleas­ant dry fin­ish. It can be served in glass tum­blers or cof­fee mugs and be just as en­joy­able. You’ll want to keep an ex­tra bot­tle or two chill­ing in the fridge, and at its easy-on-the-bud­get price, that won’t stretch you too far. Most re­cently spot­ted at Ev­ery­thing Wine’s North Van­cou­ver lo­ca­tion, Crosstown Liquor Store, and Mar­quis Wine Cel­lars on Davie Street.


(Bordeaux, France; $39.99, B.C. Liquor Stores) From the Pes­sacléog­nan ap­pel­la­tion of Bordeaux comes this well-com­posed pink wine, de­serv­ing of both your at­ten­tion and ad­mi­ra­tion. Be­fore we even get into the bot­tle’s con­tents, let’s take a mo­ment to bask in the ex­clu­siv­ity of it. Bar­bara Philip, master of wine and Euro­pean­wine buyer for B.C. Liquor Stores, se­cured a global retail exclusive on this daz­zling wine; out of the 183-odd cases that were pro­duced, about half have come to us here in B.C., while most of the other half is stay­ing put at the château. From 20-year-old vines grown in gravel soils comes this blend of 60 per­cent Caber­net Sau­vi­gnon and 40 per­cent Mer­lot, mac­er­ated on the skins for four hours, then aged in French oak bar­rels for four months, with the lees stirred twice a month to add greater rich­ness and com­plex­ity. This wine has all the poise and in­tri­cacy of a fine red, yet it is lifted and bright enough to tackle your hol­i­day feast with ease. Red berry fruit and fresh thyme are held to­gether with fan­tas­tic con­cen­tra­tion and acid­ity, with just a hint of nut­meg and a speck of clove on the fin­ish. Don’t serve this one too cold; al­low­ing it 10 or 15 min­utes out of the fridge be­fore pour­ing will un­leash even more char­ac­ter.

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