Island wines are evolving

An emphasis on simplicity and matching grapes to climate is paying off The Bottle Kurtis Kolt

There was a time, not too long ago, when I wasn’t very excited by most of the Vancouver Island wines I’d tried. There had been a few hits during the years I’m thinking of (roughly the first decade of this still newish century), particularly Venturi-schulze’s Brut Naturel ($32.10, venturischulze.com/) out of Cobble Hill. This perennially pleasing sparkling wine combines Pinot Auxerrois and Pinot Gris to great effect, harnessing the cool-climate region’s penchant for lively acidity and freshness that dovetails perfectly with the wine’s pretty citrus and stone fruit.

It’s that freshness and deliciousness that are, and should be, the goal for any quality Island wine. Too often in the past, many Island wines featured under-the-radar, cool-climatefriendly hybrid grape varieties, showing a gamey or sour character on the palate, or there were occasional ham-handed approaches to noble varieties like Pinot Noir, which faltered once overzealous winemakers intervened a little too much with vinicultural trickery. There were exceptions, to be sure, but for a good amount of time, things seemed to be all over the place when trying to ascertain an Island style.

The less-is-more approach that the Okanagan has generally adopted in recent memory (fewer sugars, less oak, less intervention) has done wonders for the quality of local wine, and the Island seems to have quickly come in lock-step with the philosophy. From where I’m sitting, I’m seeing a focus on varieties that excel, varieties that indeed still include hybrids (those created by Swiss grape breeder Valentin Blattner are particularly notable), but they are types that are tasty alongside their suitability to the local climate. Wines made from Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris are increasingly crafted with a gentle hand, with winemakers eschewing the showiness of heavy oak and blending in a little Okanagan fruit to give things a little more oomph. The wines, from producers like Unsworth Vineyards and Averill Creek, are quite laudable in the “doing things right” arena, to the point where I don’t hesitate to recommend anything in their respective portfolios.

Besides the aforementioned wineries, I’ve been keeping my eye on Duncan’s Blue Grouse Estate Winery of late, and I have been impressed with its continual progress and evolution into one of the Island’s, if not British Columbia’s, preeminent wineries.

Blue Grouse’s 26 hectares are nestled in the Cowichan Valley, where the Brunner family is growing Bacchus, Black Muscat, Gamay Noir, Müller-thurgau, Ortega, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, and Siegerrebe. Although some of the fruit in their vineyard has been growing on vines planted in the late 1980s, the Brunner family is currently putting a greater focus on Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir with new plantings. That fruit is in good hands with winemaker Bailey Williamson, who began his career in the industry on the culinary side of things, eventually hopping out of kitchens and into wineries.

I first met Williamson years ago, during his five-year tenure as assistant winemaker at Oliver’s Road 13 Vineyards. He’s the guy who started their sparkling program, making the Road 13 Sparkling Chenin Blanc a cult-favourite fizz that has nabbed many an award (and toasted many a good time) over the years.

I had no doubt that once he crossed the Salish Sea to shepherd Cowichan vineyards, the results were destined to be spot-on. His wines are buoyant and breezy, proper odes to the Island. Seafood-friendly hits include aromatic, cheery fare like the Blue Grouse 2016 Bacchus, bursting with jasmine, green apple, and pink grapefruit, and a 2016 Pinot Gris offering pleasant, juicy bites of fresh peaches and apricots. Williamson crafts a sparkling wine at Blue Grouse as well, natch. The 2014 “Paula” Sparkling is a dry, floral, and citrusy blend of Müller-thurgau, Ortega, Pinot Auxerrois, and Riesling, made in the traditional method and ready to hit oysters and ceviche the moment you pop the cap. And so.

I’ve got bad news and good news. The bad news is that for those looking to order a few bottles winery-direct, most of them are currently sold-out due to the quality and popularity of the wines. However, the good news is that there is indeed stock here and there at private stores around these parts. Better yet: Williamson is crossing the Salish Sea again, this time to the Lower Mainland.

Everything Wine’s Vancouver location (8570 River District Crossing) is hosting Blue Grouse Estate Winery for a free tasting on March 27 from 2 to 6 p.m. Drop by at any time that afternoon to meet Bailey, and relish the opportunity to try his wines while learning more about them. Enjoy a little Island life, right here in the city, then keep an eye on Blue Grouse’s website for those 2017 releases, which should be coming soon.