Torizo Ramen Bar helps to feed a noodle revolution
While many people in Asia are accustomed to consuming noodles with broth yearround, those who grew up in western cultures tend to think of such bowls as wintertime fare. However they might be regarded, there’s one thing we can all agree upon: they provide a bellywarming antidote to the universal experience of a growling stomach.
Unfortunately, the economic maelstrom of the pandemic has taken some noodleshop casualties along with it. Among them have been Ramen Takanotsume’s location on Bidwell Street off Robson (although its Richmond location remains open at Aberdeen Centre) and the Ramenman, one of the few independent ramen shops in Vancouver.
But only a few blocks away from where the Ramenman once stood near Yaletown is a new noodle bar that is going against the grain of these uncertain times and proving that nothing stops a good bowl of noodles.
Nestled between Yaletown and the West End, Torizo Ramen Bar quietly opened up at 1265 Granville Street, the former location of Alpha Sushi Bar, on October 23. This one’s from the Zakkushi Group, which not only launched the Zakkushi yakitori izakayas in Vancouver and Toronto but also Menya Raizo in the City Hall area in August 2018.
With a clean and pleasingly light decor, the petite space currently has seating for 17 patrons during the pandemic. (Takeout is available as well.)
Although most ramen shops in Vancouver use tonkotsu (pork broth), Torizo uses two types of broth: clear chicken broth, which is lighter and more nuanced than tonkotsu yet still flavourful; and vegepotage, or vegetable broth. Also, all ramen bowls at Torizo feature thin noodles.
Hiroshi Yoshida of the Zakkushi Group told the Georgia Straight that with Torizo, they sought to offer ramen that can be eaten daily without becoming tiresome, all while providing variations that haven’t been seen before. That’s evident from a glance at the innovative menu.
For those who prefer the classics, there’s chicken shoyu ramen (including bamboo shoots and Japanese leek with arugula as a garnish). But the other bowls span a range of intriguing offerings.
Chicken vege-potage ramen comes with some uncommon toppings—broccoli, brussels sprouts, semi-dried tomato, yellow bell pepper—along with tried-and-true favourites like dried seaweed, corn, and red onion. For those who want more bite, it’s also available in a spicy-sauce version.
There’s also the Torizo tan-men, which features vege-potage broth and comes
with the same items (except for seaweed and corn) plus chashu chicken, Japanese leek, citrus, and—something not seen on most, if any, ramen menus in this city— marinated beets.
Southeast Asian influence shows up in cilantro chicken ramen, accompanied with yellow bell pepper, semi-dried tomato, and red onion. Meanwhile, a rare entry in Vancouver is the sous vide duck ramen, with lime, arugula, yellow bell pepper, semidried tomato, and seven kinds of pepper.
There are also dishes ranging from misosimmered mackerel or takoyaki (octopus balls) to sous-vide duck breast with housemade balsamic sauce or simmered beef tongue, all of which can be enjoyed as snacks with alcohol. In addition to beer, whiskey, and sake, the cocktail menu includes housemade kiwi, lemon, or apple vinegar highballs; a sake ginger highball; a yuzu honey radler; a ramune sour; and more.
Yoshida said that although opening a ramen shop during a pandemic presented its difficulties, another challenge was creating ramen that balanced traditional elements but incorporated new influences. But this promising start can provide hope not only for the industry during the pandemic but also for the ongoing evolution of ramen in this city.