Better than the sum of the parts

One of my favourite flavour combinations presents itself during this brief period when rhubarb and strawberries are both available fresh in P.E.I.

Both tasty on their own, these two pair up to create a third flavour that is better than the sum of its parts.

Famously, a pie filling flavour, strawberry-rhubarb can be used in many ways. To prepare a basic blend, start with a rhubarb sauce – I cook a mix of 8 parts chopped rhubarb to 1 part white or brown sugar in the microwave until tender – and stir in approximately an equal volume of sliced or crushed fresh strawberries.

Keep it in the fridge until ready to use it in one of these ways: stir it into ricotta cheese and serve with toast for breakfast; layer it with plain or vanilla-flavoured Greek yogurt to make a dessert parfait; serve it on pound cake or biscuits for shortcake; spoon it into or over meringue shells; dip into it, as is, for a snack or a fruit dessert; add an oaty topping (3 parts rolled oats, stirred into a mix with 1 part cold butter cut into 1 part each of brown sugar and flour), and bake at 180 C (350 F) until the topping is lightly browned to make rhubarb-strawberry crisp; roll it up in a crepe; drizzle over waffles or pancakes or ladle a little on top of your overnight oats.

Here’s a recipe for meringue shells that can be topped with strawberry-rhubarb mix. It’s adapted from a recipe for Roasted Rhubarb Eton Mess in Aimee Wimbush-Bourque’s “Brown Eggs and Jam Jars”, Penguin Canada, Toronto, 2015. I have made other meringues that bake at a slightly higher temperature for a shorter time, but I was happiest with the light, crisp meringues made with Wimbush-Bourque’s recipe.

Meringue Shells

2 large egg whites, at room temperature

125 mL (½ cup granulated sugar

2 mL (½ tsp) pure vanilla extract Preheat oven to 100 C (200 F). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

Place egg whites in the bowl of a

stand mixer, and beat on low until frothy. Increase speed slightly and beat until egg whites are thick but not glossy, about 5 minutes. Sprinkle in the sugar, 15 mL (1 tbsp) at a time, beating for about a minute between additions. The best meringues are not rushed. When all the sugar is added, meringue will be thick and shiny. Beat in the vanilla. Using a soup spoon, drop meringue in 12 mounds on the prepared baking sheet. Flatten slightly with the back of the spoon.

Bake meringues for 3 hours, then turn off the oven and let them dry in the closed oven for an additional hour. Store in an airtight container until ready to serve. Meringues may be made up to 1 day ahead. Spoon strawberry-rhubarb mixture over meringue shells, and top with a spoonful of lightly sweetened whipped cream. Alternatively, spoon fruit mixture into dessert bowls, top with meringues, crush to break them up slightly and top it all with whipped cream.

Makes 6 servings

Rhubarb and Strawberry Pie

Adapted from Wells, Karl with Steve Watson: “Cooking with One Chef, One Critic”. Flanker Press Limited, St. John’s, 2013.

Pastry for a 2-crust 22 cm (9 inch) pie 1 L (4 cups) chopped rhubarb 500 mL (2 cups) sliced strawberries 330 mL (1 cups) sugar 60 mL (¼ cup) cornstarch 15 mL (1 tbsp) lemon juice 1 mL (¼ tsp) cinnamon 1 egg, beaten

Preheat oven to 220 C (425 F). Roll out half pastry dough and line 22 cm (9 inch) pie plate. Trim dough, leaving 10 mm (½ inch) overhang. Combine rhubarb, strawberries, sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice and cinnamon in bowl. Stir gently. Pour mixture into trimmed pie shell. Roll out remaining dough and cut into 2.5 cm (1 inch) strips. Make a lattice top crust by criss-crossing strips over fruit mixture. Trim strips even with plate. Fold 10 mm (½ inch) of bottom crust over ends of strips.

Seal and flute edges. Brush lattice with egg.

Place pie plate on baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes, until crust starts to brown. Reduce heat to 190 C (375 F) and continue baking for 50-60 minutes, until crust is golden, rhubarb is tender, and filling has thickened.

Makes 8 servings