Tin­ker­ing with ‘the god­dess’

There are many vari­a­tions for Green God­dess Dress­ing

The Guardian (Charlottetown) - - FOOD - BY KATIE WORK­MAN

Green God­dess Dress­ing was cre­ated at the Palace Ho­tel in San Fran­cisco, an op­u­lent 19th cen­tury ho­tel noted for its celebrity chefs. In those days, celebrity chefs were not Food Net­work Stars, but usu­ally white-to­qued men ei­ther from, or trained in, Europe. No one was yelling “Bam!” so much back then.

Chef Philip Roe­mer de­buted the dress­ing in 1923 to hon­our ac­tor Ge­orge Arliss, who stayed at the ho­tel while per­form­ing in Wil­liam Archer’s hit play “The Green God­dess.” It is be­lieved to have been in­spired by a dress­ing that hailed from the kitchens serv­ing Louis XIII, served then not with sal­ads, but with eel. (If you have long won­dered what dress­ing to serve with your Wednes­day Night Eel, as I have, this info could be very help­ful.)

The orig­i­nal recipe is re­ported to have con­tained may­on­naise, sour cream, pars­ley, chives, an­chovies, lemon juice and vine­gar, but it has been tin­kered with over the years by count­less chefs and home cooks, in­clud­ing yours truly. A mod­ern­ized ver­sion re­cently served at the ho­tel in­cludes ad­di­tional in­gre­di­ents like spinach and chervil and ca­pers, and a home­made mayo with raw egg yolks. The dress­ing may have dif­fer­ent ver­sions, but it’s al­ways creamy and vi­brant with herbs, pi­quant with a bit of acid­ity, and salty-sa­vory from an­chovies.

This is my most re­cent ver­sion, and I will surely con­tinue to play with this dress­ing for­ever. You can use it as a salad dress­ing on any kind of let­tuce or veg­etable salad or as a dip with cru­dites.

For a veg­e­tar­ian ver­sion, sub­sti­tute a ta­ble­spoon of rinsed ca­pers for the an­chovies.

AP PHOTO

Green God­dess Dress­ing was cre­ated at the Palace Ho­tel in San Fran­cisco, an op­u­lent 19th cen­tury ho­tel noted for its celebrity chefs. This recipe is from Katie Work­man.

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