The Guardian (Charlottetown)

It’s time to make the doughnuts

- BY JOSH CORNFIELD

Phish announced its 13-show run in New York with a video in January that showed giant doughnuts rolling through the city.

That got Felicia D’Ambrosio’s phone buzzing, with calls from friends hoping that might mean a role for the Phish superfan and co-owner of a Philadelph­ia doughnut and fried chicken shop that had made doughnuts dedicated to the band in the past.

“Well, no, I don’t want to work on Phish tour,’’ thought D’Ambrosio, who has been to more than 100 shows.

Then came the request. From the band.

Time to make the doughnuts. Doughnuts are everywhere in Phish’s “Baker’s Dozen’’ residency at Madison Square Garden, which kicked off last week and lasts until Aug. 6, from the tickets to a huge mural to the thousands of Federal Donuts being given out to fans each night. The band is even working each night’s custom flavour into its setlists.

The band “never stops surprising me and delighting me and I trust them,’’ D’Ambrosio said. “To us at Federal Donuts, it’s this weird collaborat­ion of this thing you love and this thing you love.’’

Phish doesn’t need gimmicks to draw fans to their mostly sold-out shows, but they are known for playful gags on stage. One song features guitarist Trey Anastasio and bass player Mike Gordon performing while jumping on trampoline­s, and drummer Jon Fishman’s other instrument­s include a vacuum cleaner.

It was Fishman’s standard outfit — a blue dress covered with red doughnut shapes — that first inspired D’Ambrosio to whip up The Fishman — a blue vanilla raspberry doughnut with a pink glaze — ahead of a 2015 show.

Mark Welker, the executive pastry chef at New York’s Eleven Madison Park and NoMad, took notice of the Fishman doughnut and another Federal Donuts creation, The Fluffhead, named for a classic Phish song — and when the band came to him for a recommenda­tion on a doughnut maker for the residency, he recommende­d D’Ambrosio.

“I knew their doughnuts are really, really good. They’re fans. This is the only option,’’ Welker said.

The band sent its flavour ideas to Federal Donuts chef Matt Fein, who came up with his interpreta­tions to send back to the band.

“Then they were like, ‘yea, rock and roll, go for it,’’’ D’Ambrosio said. “It was nice and simple.’’

 ?? AP PHOTO ?? Chef Matt Fein prepared donuts for a Phish concert Wednesday at Federal Donuts in Philadelph­ia. Doughnuts are everywhere in Phish’s “Baker’s Dozen’’ 13-show residency at Madison Square Garden, which kicked off last week.
AP PHOTO Chef Matt Fein prepared donuts for a Phish concert Wednesday at Federal Donuts in Philadelph­ia. Doughnuts are everywhere in Phish’s “Baker’s Dozen’’ 13-show residency at Madison Square Garden, which kicked off last week.

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