Titanic and The Beatles - the lure of Liverpool
We knew it wasn’t going to collapse or sink. But it still gave us an odd feeling when we checked into the Titanic Hotel, a huge, converted rum warehouse adjacent to the Mersey River Estuary in Liverpool, England.
The ill-fated liner was not built in Liverpool and never visited the port prior to its tragic Atlantic crossing but its owner, the White Star Line, was based in the British city and the nameplate so evident on the ship’s giant stern read TITANIC LIVERPOOL.
In a way it’s fitting that this grand hotel — and The Titanic Hotel, with extra-large rooms, vaulted ceilings, quality furnishings, free wifi and a superb staff was very grand – should be associated with a city best known for decades as the centre of British marine commerce. White Star’s chief rival in world trade routes and luxurious passenger steamships, Cunard Line, was also based here. The legacy of its Canadian founder, Nova Scotia’s Sir Samuel Cunard, lives on with buildings and statues on two continents and the very successful Cunard passenger line including the world’s only true ocean liner, Queen Mary 2. In 2015 we were privileged to join the Queen Mary 2 in Liverpool for the 175th anniversary crossing of Cunard’s first passenger and mail steamship service from Liverpool to Halifax and Boston.
Liverpool was the major port of departure for thousands of Irish and English emigrants in the 19th century. That remarkable nautical history is recounted in the extensive Merseyside Maritime Museum on Albert Dock in addition to many displays about the ill-fated Titanic and its connection to Liverpool (many crewmembers were Liverpudlians). There’s even a Titanic lifejacket and some crockery that was brought up from the wreck. Lesser known but equally interesting is the floor dedicated to Lusitania, the giant Cunard liner (once the world’s biggest passenger ship) that was torpedoed off the coast of Ireland by a German submarine in 1915. Almost 1,200 lives were lost. The basement of this popular attraction is home to the unusual
Border Force National Museum. The extensive exhibits focus on smuggling and contraband related to the work of the UK Border Agency and Her Majesty’s Revenue and Customs. You can see how cocaine was smuggled into Britain in wooden carvings and follow the illegal trade in exotic birds across Europe.
Nearby on Albert Dock is The Cunard Building, the new home (it used to be in London) of the British Music Experience, an interactive national museum dedicated to the rich history of popular music in Britain over the past 70 years, from Cliff Richard to Elton John, the Rolling Stones and Adele. They include a stage with a virtual hologram performance (we loved Boy George), David Bowie outfits and a booth where, with flashing lights, you’re taught dance moves from rave to disco to punk. One popular section is loaded with instruments where you can pick up a Gibson or Fender guitar, play the drums or tinkle a keyboard with an instructional video to guide you.
Naturally, the Beatles form a key part of this museum but the remarkable influence of these four Liverpool lads is seen all over the city. The most complete exhibit is The Beatles Story, also in the Albert Dock area. A series of rooms showcase their humble beginnings, greatest hits and profound influence on popular music. Many of their original costumes are on display plus plenty of music clips (including the history-making Ed Sullivan appearance).
From Albert Dock we hopped onboard the Magical Mystery Tour bus to visit sites like Penny Lane and Strawberry Fields plus the boyhood homes (exterior only) of John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison and Ringo Starr. The guide has remarkable knowledge of the four famous lads from Liverpool and entertains with humour and many music clips. We learned that, in his youth, Paul failed his singing audition at Liverpool Cathedral. The tour ends near the legendary Cavern Club and its continuous live music in the Beatles tradition.
Liverpool surprised us with the quality of the cuisine in the city (although it was very difficult to find a locally brewed craft beer). On our first night, after a long but pleasant drive from London, we dined at the Titanic Hotel and loved its restaurant, Stanley’s. The bar has the biggest rum selection in Britain (appropriate for a former rum warehouse) and the food, ranging from excellent lamb to superb sea bass and finishing with a rich sticky toffee pudding was a great reminder of how far British cooking has come. Later in the week we enjoyed a meal at the London Carriage Works, an award winning restaurant that was formerly a late 1800s coach manufacturer. The tasty food included an unusual roast pigeon appetizer with gingerbread and cherries and mains of salmon and lamb rump with figs. Other meals we enjoyed were at Slim’s Pork Chop (who knew England had authentic BBQ to rival Texas?) and a delightful lunch/ afternoon tea at Oh Me Oh My (great tea selection plus wonderful pastries and traditional sandwiches). And we love how British department stores, especially Marks & Spencer, have major sections devoted to food. What’s not to love about British pasties and succulent eccles cakes?