FESTIVE FLAVOURS
Chef Ilona experiments with the festive flavour of gingerbread
In her monthly column, chef Ilona Daniel prepares gingerbread waffles with Persian cranberry compote
The unmistakeable gingerbread flavour profile is inextricably linked to the festive season. Its origins date back to medieval England when spices like ginger and cloves began to get added to the pantry.
The nostalgic practice of cobbling cookie houses and rounded figures can be traced to that time period. The aristocracy would have gingerbread houses and figures gilded with gold leaf commissioned and put on display. The production in scale and detail of these confectionary communities became a source of entertainment and merriment. Entire fairs were created so the masses could catch a glimpse of such sweet inspiration. This playful tradition persists into our modern life, with new iterations of the classic gingerbread man.
Ginger became a cherished spice from the expansion of the spice route into China. The warmth and depth found in the flavour of ginger in all its guises serves as a substitute for heat the winter season inherently lacks. We look to gastronomic symbolism to further enhance the merriment of the holiday season.
In this spirit of reinvention, I’ve found myself motivated to experiment with my small waffle iron at home. I’ve placed various batters, breads and vegetables in attempts to uncover whether or not said items “will waffle”. I’ve had great luck with brownie batter and stuffing and some crushing defeats with sweet potato. Some of the most fulfilling happened when I was able to mash up beloved concepts or items to create something playful and delicious. (As a bonus tidbit of information, tater tots are fantastic waffled.)
As I was creating my recipe book for my breakfast rotation at The Culinary Institute of Canada, I knew I had to include some seasonal waffles in addition to the classic items. Gingerbread waffles are both festive and progressive in how we experience the flavours of medieval gingerbread.
Waffles and gingerbread share the similar trajectory of evolution, lore, and international notoriety culminating perfectly in a polar vortex of holiday feasting. Enjoy these waffles as soon as they come off of the waffle iron or, alternatively, freeze them for up to one month. Reheat them in a toaster or a 400 F oven. Serve with maple syrup, or this middle-eastern treated cranberry compote.