The Guardian (Charlottetown)

Chanel wows celebritie­s with ship for cruise show in Paris

Designer Karl Lagerfeld created the spectacle

- BY THOMAS ADAMSON

Kristen Stewart, Ralph Fiennes and Margot Robbie all craned their necks up in awe.

A creaking, 330-foot (100meter) cruise liner - with steaming funnels and gangplanks - was something Chanel’s celebrity guests never imagined they’d see moored on the dry land of the French capital, let alone inside the city’s Grand Palais.

It was the decor for Chanel’s annual Cruise collection Thursday night in Paris in which designer Karl Lagerfeld created a spectacle worthy of a James Cameron movie set.

The show saw the largerthan-life 84-year-old continue to defy expectatio­ns in fashion show spending - after earlier shows produced a recreated Eiffel Tower, a space rocket, a supermarke­t and a forest.

“The bar has been set very high ... The set design in itself blew me away,” said Robbie.

“It’s amazing, but it doesn’t surprise me. This is Karl’s genius and imaginatio­n,” said model Lily-Rose Depp. “Everything is just so realistic - down to the light that looks like water, and the smoke and the stars.”

The ship took two months to create with an exterior in plywood and a hull made of myriad steel.

The gargantuan vessel named “La Pausa” after house founder Coco Chanel’s Southern French villa - was brought to life by lighting mimicking lapping ocean waves and the sound of cawing sea gulls.

The sea theme infused the clothes and was an apt choice for the mid-season show.

Cruise or “resort” shows shown by only a handful of the world’s fashion houses - were originally conceived to target wealthy women who travelled on cruise ships in the winter. Nowadays, they’re used as a lucrative means of re-stimulatin­g fashions in the mid-season lull.

Chanel’s show was all about the nautical stripe.

Chic baggy pants opened the show, sporting optical black and white lines.

The motif was based on the razzle dazzle designs painted on U.S. and British warships from World War I to camouflage them from German UBoats. The stripes appeared down layered sleeves on twopiece skirts and in technicolo­ur across white sporty dresses.

Styles from the Sixties also were a key element in the relaxed 87-piece collection. White berets met sexy exposed midriffs, miniskirts and loose white sweaters that were cut with a retro bateau collar. Mary Janes - one-strap shoes - were also given a cool reworking in silver and white, and some had rubber soles.

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