The Guardian (Charlottetown)

Beyond coffee?

- SYLVAIN CHARLEBOIS GUEST OPINION Dr. Sylvain Charlebois is senior director of the Agri-Food Analytics Lab and professor in food distributi­on and policy at Dalhousie University.

Bean-less coffee is a thing now and could hit the market as early as next year.

Seattle-based company Atomo has created coffee grounds in a laboratory, without the use of coffee beans.

Unlike plant-based products, in which existing food ingredient­s are used, Atomo’s coffee is, well … created. It’s molecular coffee, which includes quinic acid, dimethyl disulfide, niacin, 2-ethylpheno­l, and a handful of other elements. The process, which remains proprietar­y, has given the world its first synthetic coffee. It was funded by Hong Kong-based Horizon Ventures, which has also backed Impossible Foods and Spotify. This multi-million dollar project is driven by the will to find sustainabl­e solutions for one of the most popular drinks in the world.

We are literally at the beginning of an agricultur­al revolution, which draws acute attention to the true cost of bringing food to our plates.

This revolution is the rise of synthetic agricultur­e, a novel food system which will operate in parallel to our traditiona­l sectors. While seeking affordable, tasty, and nutritious food, other holistic factors are becoming key drivers.

A major part of Atomo’s promotion appeals to consumers who are increasing­ly concerned about the damage coffee growing has caused in natural areas. Coffee growers will continue to grow coffee in establishe­d plantation­s, but an increasing number of experts are concerned about the continued deforestat­ion to plant new crops. China and other growing markets are getting more addicted to java, putting more pressure on growers to increase productivi­ty. Considerin­g the wildfires affecting the Amazon, concerns are now rampant. Intentiona­lly ignited fires are directly related to the level of deforestat­ion witnessed in recent years in order to grow more crops.

The idea of drinking a labproduce­d drink, let alone coffee, does not sit well with Canadians. A recent omnibus survey conducted by Dalhousie University found that 72 per cent of Canadians would not drink lab-grown coffee. So, it is fair to say that most Canadians are not there yet.

Nonetheles­s, what’s refreshing is that we are seeing an influx of new thinkers in agricultur­e. Agricultur­e is getting capitalize­d by non-agricultur­al stakeholde­rs, who really look at food differentl­y. Funds, private investors, billions are poured into analogous agricultur­e these days, only to offer something traditiona­l that agricultur­e is unable to produce.

While most surveys find that most consumers want companies to be eco-friendly – growing, processing, and distributi­ng food using traditiona­l methods has its limitation­s. Synthetic agricultur­e is getting more attention due to its unequivoca­l stance on producing food with fewer resources. Whether these methods are more sustainabl­e remains to be seen. This view is obviously confronted by old-style agricultur­al practices followed by producers who have prided themselves as being the best caretakers of the environmen­t. Farmers are indeed great environmen­tal stewards themselves, but things have changed, the planet has changed, and our view of the world has changed. Growing coffee requires a lot of water and land. Given how little resources are involved, cultured food in general is becoming more of a conceivabl­e option instead of something you would normally see in a science fiction movie. But to give these products a chance to succeed, certain fundamenta­ls must be met. Affordabil­ity, nutrition, and taste will continue to be key, no matter where the food is coming from.

RBC researcher­s and economists recently released a report about seizing on a “fourth agricultur­al revolution” in Canada that accentuate­s data over manual labour.

This is quite true, but this phase of our agricultur­al journey is more than just simply feeding the world by producing more with less. Supply-side economics in agricultur­e are slowly leaving some space for a model for which producing demandfocu­sed products of which the sole intent is to satisfy the needs of a very different, very urban consumer. It’s no longer just about dirt, animals, land, and hard work. It’s about molecules. Even though it will have its fair share of regulatory challenges, the rise of synthetic agricultur­e is very much a part of that revolution.

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123RF.COM PHOTO

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