The Guardian (Charlottetown)

Red meat, science and buffets

- SYLVAIN CHARLEBOIS GUEST OPINION Sylvain Charlebois is director of the Agri-food Analytics Lab and professor in food distributi­on and policy at Dalhousie University.

For a few years now, we have been force-fed the notion that red meat and processed meat products threaten our health. In 2015, the World Health Organizati­on went as far as to say that processed meats were carcinogen­ic, adding them to the same category as asbestos.

That’s when everything went sideways for animal proteins. Since then, the collective convention­al wisdom on proteins has suggested that we go plantbased, as far as possible.

And Canada’s Food Guide, released earlier this year, was the exclamatio­n mark the plantbased movement had been looking for.

But the current protein war between the livestock industry and plant-based supporters has taken an interestin­g twist.

A group of 14 scholars has published a report in the Annals of Internal Medicine, one of the most cited journals in the world, which suggests that the consequenc­es of eating meat vary from person to person.

The report stated that health effects of red meat consumptio­n are detectable only in the largest groups, and advice to individual­s to cut back may not be justified by the available data.

In other words, the group claims that the findings of many studies may have been generalize­d and, to some extent, scientific­ally alarmist. This meta-analysis looked at 54 different studies with high methodolog­ical standards, published over a period of about 20 years. It’s an interestin­g read. The disclosure section, where conflicts of interest are listed, takes up almost half of the report. The journal editors knew the findings were going to be controvers­ial.

Like any other study, this report should be taken with a grain of salt. There is no such thing as a perfect study, as scientific research is not absolute. It is a journey of discoverie­s with the intent to better our society by helping us make better choices as individual­s and in business and government.

This latest instalment on the consumptio­n of proteins only adds to the breadth of knowledge we now have on the subject. At the same time, the study’s judgement-free stance on scientific findings is refreshing, as it did not attempt to condemn alternativ­e choices. The group clearly does not want the report to become a weapon. This is perhaps the reason that they did not discuss either environmen­tal or ethical aspects of meat consumptio­n, which carry their own share of confusion and controvers­ies.

When it comes to food research, we should remind ourselves that there is no right or wrong, but the overpoweri­ng plant-based narrative has gotten all of us thinking that way. Some diets are more desirable than others, health-wise, but the way we assess risks related to food should be individual­ized, as the report pointed out. Many health profession­als contributi­ng to this talking-down message forgot that we are all individual­s, with a past, a future, and our own dietary biases. Choices around food are intrinsica­lly human, and as we look to science to address some of the ambiguitie­s, we tend to forget that. The study by the group of scholars reminds us that generaliza­tions are dangerousl­y limiting in terms of giving choices to consumers.

The “protein war” isn’t about how much meat we should eat but more about how scientific findings on the subject should be interprete­d. It's a mess, created by academic factions with the agenda of curing the world of its dietary ills. Many are to blame for this one-sided dialogue, but academia, most of all. Some scholars almost see this protein issue as a cause which often makes them blind and unreceptiv­e to opposite views.

Science is not a buffet where anyone can pick and choose what is preferred. In the end, consumers are the real victims, as such informatio­n generates more confusion than anything else. The public deserves better.

Scientific research on food cannot afford deceptive conclusion­s or repressed public debate and shouldn’t present only one side of such important issues. We should never stop questionin­g and dare to let the public think critically about their food choices, which is what the authors of this study have done.

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