The Hamilton Spectator

MAKE IT TONIGHT!

With only a few side dishes, this Asian dinner will come together in a flash

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Steamed pork buns are popping up on menus everywhere, and it’s no wonder.

With their pillowy softness, rich fillings and salty-sweet sauces, they represent everything that makes Asian cuisines so craveable.

Chinese-style steamed buns, known commonly as bao, are our most familiar representa­tion of the dish, though you can find versions across Korean, Japanese and Southeast Asian cuisines. Sometimes the fillings, which can be sweet or savoury, are fully encased in the bun. But we like this version, where the dough is folded around the filling like a sandwich.

When it comes to fillings, there are no limits. Sticky braised pork is a crowd-pleaser, and variations on the theme can be found on menus around the world. But chefs are pushing the limits now, filling their bao buns with anything from fried chicken to braised beef tongue to bold, mouth-numbing curries.

The best part of this recipe is eating it, but as a dinner host, you will most appreciate the makeahead quality of each component. With only a few side dishes — like simple vegetables or a cold noodle salad — this dinner will come together in a flash. Because the pork is so rich, a little bit goes a long way.

While pork belly may not be a part of your typical dinner rotation, don’t be intimidate­d. It’s the cut we use to make bacon, and is characteri­zed by layers of meat and unctuous fat. When cooked properly, the meat is soft and tender, almost melting in your mouth.

You may choose to purchase the belly with or without skin. Even after a long braise, the skin will retain some chew, so if that sounds unpleasant, skin-off might be for you.

Braised items are the ultimate make-ahead item, since they just get better over time. The key to preparing this pork belly the day ahead is in the braising liquid. You’ll submerge the finished pork in some of the liquid to help keep it moist in the refrigerat­or. You’ll reduce the rest to make a glossy sauce.

Though you may be tempted to prepare your own steamed buns, there are excellent store-bought varieties available at your local Asian market. Since you’ll probably have to stop there anyway for some other ingredient­s, do yourself a favour and buy the buns (you’ll find them in the frozen section).

You’ll need to steam the buns just before serving, but they only take a few minutes. They can be a bit sticky, so cut strips of parchment paper to wrap around the outside of the buns, to keep them from sticking together in your serving dish. Then sit back and watch them disappear.

Pork Belly Steamed Buns

MAKES 12 SERVINGS ½ cup light soy sauce ½ cup dark soy sauce (see note) ¼ cup Korean soy bean paste (doenjang) One 1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced 1 scallion, cut into 1-inch pieces 1 whole star anise 1 teaspoon ground black pepper ¼ cup brown sugar, divided use 2 pounds pork belly, with or without skin 12 frozen steamed buns, steamed until soft Cucumber Salad (recipe below)

Start to finish: 4 hours (one hour active)

In a large Dutch oven, combine the light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, bean paste, ginger, scallion, star anise, pepper and 2 tablespoon­s of the brown sugar. Stir to combine. Add the pork belly and enough water to cover about halfway up the side of the meat (about 1½ cups).

Bring to a boil over mediumhigh heat. Reduce to a gentle simmer and cover with a tight-fitting lid. Simmer for one hour.

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool slightly. Transfer the pork to a cutting pork and slice into 12 even slices, about ¼ inch by 3 inches. Return the slices to the Dutch oven and transfer, covered, to the oven and roast until the meat is tender, but not falling apart, about one hour.

Transfer the pork belly to a shallow baking dish or container. Add enough of the braising liquid to cover the meat and set aside or cover and refrigerat­e until use. Bring the remaining braising liquid to a boil over medium-high heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoon­s brown sugar and simmer until the mixture has reduced enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 40 minutes. Strain through a fine mesh strainer, then cool slightly if using right away, or transfer to a covered container and refrigerat­e until needed.

Just before serving, preheat the broiler to high. Remove the pork belly from the braising liquid and discard the liquid. Dip each slice of pork belly into the reduced sauce and arrange in one layer on a foillined baking pan. Transfer to the oven and broil until the sauce begins to caramelize around the edges of the pork, about four minutes.

Fill each steamed bun with a slice of pork and a spoonful of cucumber salad. Serve with the sauce on the side.

Chef’s note: There are many varieties of soy sauce, most of which can be easily purchased at your local Asian market. Light soy sauce should not be mistaken for “low sodium,” but will instead be specially labelled as “light.” Dark soy sauce might also be labelled as “thick.”

Cucumber Salad

MAKES 12 SERVINGS 1 English cucumber, halved and thinly sliced 1 carrot, julienned or shredded ¼ red onion, thinly sliced 2 cloves garlic, minced 2 tablespoon­s rice vinegar 1 teaspoon sugar 1 tsp kosher salt ½ tsp ground black pepper ½ tsp sesame seeds

In a medium bowl, combine the cucumber, carrot, onion and garlic. Stir to combine.

Add the vinegar, sugar, salt, pepper and sesame seeds, and toss to coat the vegetables. Refrigerat­e at least one hour.

Per serving of pork buns: 556 calories (378 from fat); 42 grams fat (15 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 54 milligrams cholestero­l; 1486 mg sodium; 29 g carbohydra­te; 1 g fibre; 9 g sugar; 14 g protein.

Per serving of cucumber salad: 9 calories (1 from fat); 0 g fat (0 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 0 mg cholestero­l; 164 mg sodium; 2 g carbohydra­te; 1 g fibre; 1 g sugar; 0 g protein.

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 ?? PHIL MANSFIELD, THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? With their pillowy softness, rich fillings and salty-sweet sauces, steamed pork buns represent everything that makes Asian cuisines so craveable.
PHIL MANSFIELD, THE ASSOCIATED PRESS With their pillowy softness, rich fillings and salty-sweet sauces, steamed pork buns represent everything that makes Asian cuisines so craveable.

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