The Hamilton Spectator

LANGDON HALL COUNTRY HOUSE HOTEL AND SPA

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1 Langdon Dr., Cambridge 1-800-268-1898 langdonhal­l.ca

Hours: Dinner: daily from 5:30 to 9 p.m.; lunch/brunch: daily from noon to 2:30 p.m.

Wheelchair accessible: Yes Atmosphere: The main dining room in this Federal Revival mansion, a Relais & Châteaux property, is formal and a dress code is specified on the website: jackets at dinner are suggested, but not required; comfortabl­e seating and well-spaced tables allowing for intimate conversati­ons; the piano music from the adjoining space was initially a bit loud but became softer as the evening progressed.

Cuisine: Under the leadership of executive chef Jason Bangerter, the accomplish­ed kitchen brigade at Langdon Hall takes oft-times hyper-local produce and elevates it in some instances, to world-class; the focus is on classic methods executed superbly, with restrained use of molecular techniques; the presentati­on of seasonal dishes is

artful and beautiful, occasional­ly in interestin­g dishware specifical­ly acquired by Bangerter on his travels; reservatio­ns are highly recommende­d.

Drinks: Everything you’d expect: the deep wine list runs over 70 pages and features more than 1,400 offerings from all over the world: a beverage team of five knowledgea­ble sommeliers is on staff to assist guests in making selections at whatever price point they desire.

Service: Mostly exemplary with an appropriat­e mix of formality to match the setting and friendline­ss to set guests at ease; dishes were delivered and cleared efficientl­y, usually by two servers working in concert.

The bill: Came to $260.47 (including tax but not tip) for two appetizers, mains and desserts and two six-ounce glasses of wine.

In a nutshell: With many national and internatio­nal accolades, Langdon Hall is deservedly considered one of Canada’s top restaurant­s; save up and go.

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