Chef manages to keep his cool in meeting our challenge
Our intention on presenting Ryan Ratino with a no-cook challenge seemed worthy: chefs are comfortable with flames and heat, so he might have to work hard at creating a three-course menu that mere-mortal cooks could reproduce at home.
So much for that. The 27-yearold executive chef who ran the kitchen for Ripple’s last eight months and is opening a new restaurant along the 14th Street corridor in Washington has long been fascinated with cold foods and raw proteins.
Garde-manger, the Frenchnamed station that handles those components in a restaurant kitchen, “was one of my favourite things at the start of my culinary career,” Ratino says. “You don’t have to worry about a hot dish cooling off before it gets to the table. I was able to be the most artistic, I think, because I could take the time to make a plate look beautiful.”
The chef ’s attention to detail is evident in the dishes he created here. For an appetizer that could also serve as a vegetarian entrée, Ratino used the same chunky kale, cashew and avocado pesto that diners loved at Ripple to top slices of ciabatta. The bright sweetness of marinated tomatoes complements and cuts through the creamy fattiness, he says.
The preparation for his crudo main dish employs a few smart professional techniques. A quick “cure” adds flavour and tightens up the texture of the fish, making
it easier to slice thin. The ribbons of marinated vegetables on top provide an acidic counterpoint to the fish and olive oil used.
“The dish tastes clean and fresh,” Ratino says.
We agree — and it makes a pretty plate.
For dessert, we allowed a microwave; even though this was a nocook challenge, the impetus behind it is to keep from heating up the kitchen, and 40 seconds on full power won’t prompt the AC to kick in. Plus, it’s just a fun recipe you might want to wait and prepare with an audience.
With knife work and special tools kept to a minimum, we think the chef met our challenge, and then some.
Kale and Cashew Pesto with Ciabatta and Heirloom Tomatoes
This is bruschetta so savoury and satisfying that you could make it a meal.
The pesto can be refrigerated a day in advance; bring to room temperature before using. Assemble the slices shortly before serving.
MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
For the pesto ¾ cup packed kale leaves (stemmed) 12 basil leaves ½ cup raw cashews 1 clove garlic ¼ cup fresh lemon juice (from 1 large lemon), or more as needed 3 tablespoons olive oil ½ to 1 teaspoon kosher salt, or more as needed Flesh of ½ ripe Hass avocado For the ciabatta 1 pint small heirloom tomatoes, cut into quarters 6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 6 tbsp white balsamic vinegar 2 tbsp honey 1 teaspoon kosher salt One 8-to-12-ounce portion of ciabatta (may substitute focaccia bread) Basil leaves, torn, for garnish Cracked black pepper, for garnish
For the pesto: Combine the kale and basil leaves, cashews, garlic, lemon juice, oil, salt (to taste) and avocado in a food processor; pulse just long enough to create a loose, pestolike consistency with no large chunks. Taste, and add salt and/or lemon juice, as needed.
For the ciabatta: Place the tomatoes in a mixing bowl.
Whisk together the oil, vinegar, honey and salt in a liquid measuring cup, until well incorporated, then pour over the tomatoes and toss gently to coat.
Cut the ciabatta crosswise into ½-inch slices, arranging them on a platter. Place a good-size dollop of the pesto on top of each one, spreading it with a table knife.
Top with some of the marinated tomatoes and garnish with torn basil leaves and cracked black pepper.
Flounder Crudo with Marinated Summer Vegetables
This is a pretty plate that’s flexible, too; you could double up the amount of marinated vegetables and serve to nonmeat eaters at your table. Be sure to use the bestquality, freshest fish you can find.
You’ll need a mandoline to shave the vegetables to the thickness just slightly greater than a sheet of paper.
MAKES 2 TO 4 SERVINGS
For the crudo 1 pound fresh, skinless flounder fillets ½ cup salt 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar 5 tablespoons coriander seed, crushed 2 lemons For the vegetables ½ medium summer squash (cut lengthwise) ½ medium zucchini (cut lengthwise) 1 medium bulb fennel, cored 12 cherry tomatoes Leaves from ½ ounce fresh thyme Leaves from ½ ounce fresh basil, finely chopped ¼ cup chopped flat-leaf parsley 1/3 cup chopped fresh tarragon leaves ½ cup white balsamic vinegar 2 ½ tablespoons honey ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt Flaked sea salt, for garnish
For the crudo: Place the fish in a shallow dish, in a single layer.
Combine the salt, sugar and crushed coriander seed in a medium bowl, then use the mixture to cover the flounder fillets. Cover loosely and refrigerate (to cure) for 25 minutes, then rinse off the fish and pat it dry with paper towels.
Use a sharp, thin knife to cut the fillets into slices a bit thicker than ¼ inch, laying them out on a platter or dividing them among individual plates.
Use a Microplane zester to grate zest of the 2 lemons (no pith) over the fish. Reserve the lemons.
For the vegetables: Use the mandoline to shave the squash, zucchini and fennel a touch thicker than a sheet of paper. Cut the tomatoes into quarters. Combine all the vegetables in a mixing bowl.
Whisk together the thyme, basil, parsley, tarragon, vinegar, honey, oil and a generous pinch of salt in a medium bowl, then add the mixture to the vegetables; let them sit at room temperature for 30 minutes.
Use a slotted spoon to distribute the marinated vegetables over the fish on the platter or plates. Spoon the vinaigrette over both.
Strawberry Air Cakes with Vanilla Cream
This is the niftiest way to make a light and airy sponge cake that we’ve come across. Torn pieces get draped with macerated strawberries and topped with lightly flavoured whipped cream. You can make it ahead, but it might be even more fun to make it a “performance art” kind of dessert at the end of the meal — with some plating help from a guest or two.
You’ll need a cartridge-charged ISI foam-whip canister (available at kitchen stores and some hardware stores) and six 16-ounce microwave-safe plastic or paper cups. (The cups can be reused.) The canister may take one or two charges, depending on its size.
Make ahead: The strawberries need to macerate for 35 minutes. The vanilla cream can be made a day or two in advance.
MAKES 6 TO 12 SERVINGS
For the vanilla cream 1 cup chilled heavy cream 3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract For the cakes 1 pint strawberries, hulled, rinsed and each cut into quarters 2 tbsp plus ¾ cup granulated sugar 8 large egg yolks plus 7 large egg whites 1½ tbsp olive oil Scrapings from 1 vanilla bean 18 tbsp flour (1 cup plus 2 tbsp) Small basil leaves, for garnish
For the vanilla cream: Beat the chilled heavy cream in the bowl of a stand mixer or handheld electric mixer on medium speed, until frothy, then add the confectioners’ sugar and vanilla extract. Increase the speed to medium-high and beat to form soft peaks. Transfer to a container; cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
For the cakes: Combine the strawberries and 2 tablespoons of granulated sugar in a mixing bowl, tossing to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 35 minutes, stirring them every 10 minutes or so.
Combine the egg yolks and egg whites, oil, vanilla bean scrapings, flour and the remaining ¾ cup granulated sugar in a blender; purée to form a smooth batter.
Pour into a fine-mesh strainer set over a large liquid measuring cup (with a spout), using a spatula to push the batter through. Discard any solids. Then pour into the ISI foam-whip canister (you may not use all the batter at once) and then insert the necessary charge (s). Shake the canister vigorously.
Use scissors or a sharp knife to make two small slits cut in the bottom of each microwave-safe cup.
Fill each cup (from the canister) about one-third full. Microwave, one cup at a time, on HIGH for 40 seconds; you’ll see the cakes puff up close to or above the rim.
Invert each cup on a platter or clean workspace, to sit for one minute before removing each air cake from its cup (it helps to run a spatula around the edges first).