The Hamilton Spectator

CRISPY SHRIMP TACOS

Handy, versatile, filling as a sandwich and crunchy to boot. What’s not to love?

- SARA MOULTON

From taco trucks to Mexican restaurant­s, tacos are just about everywhere these days.

And why not? A taco is exactly as handy, versatile and filling as a sandwich, and crunchy to boot.

Lots of folks dream of making these fried corn tortillas at home, but some pull up short at the prospect of having to deep-fry them.

The solution? Don’t fry them. Baking will bring tacos to crispy perfection and allow you to shape them into shells in the process.

That said, I discovered while developing this recipe for Crispy Shrimp Tacos with Cole Slaw and Chipotle Cream that not all corn tortillas are created equal. Some are thicker and some are thinner. Some are drier and some are moister.

Given that there’s no way of predicting these qualities in the brands you buy at the store, you just need to pay attention to the tortillas as they bake and adjust accordingl­y. Some brands will require more time than others to become crispy.

Before being baked, the tortillas need to be steamed a bit so they don’t crack when you shape them. Then you brush them very lightly on both sides with oil (or with vegetable oil spray, if you prefer), drape them directly over a bar of the oven rack and bake them until crispy. (See recipe for details.)

I recommend baking them in two batches of four tortillas each because when you open the oven to shape them, the oven temperatur­e drops. If you’re shaping all eight at once, the temperatur­e will drop a lot and the tortillas will take forever to crisp.

The shells can be made ahead and parked in a bowl at room temperatur­e. Then you can turn to the preparatio­n of whichever fillings you want. (Here I propose coleslaw, grilled shrimp and chipotle cream.) When the dinner bell chimes, just set out all the fixings and let people dig in for themselves.

Crispy Shrimp Tacos with Cole Slaw and Chipotle Cream MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Eight 6-inch corn tortillas 3 tablespoon­s vegetable oil, plus extra for brushing the tortillas ¼ cup mayonnaise (low-fat if you prefer) ¼ cup Greek yogurt or sour cream 1 teaspoon minced chipotle in adobo sauce ½ tsp adobo sauce from the can 1 tbsp plus 2½ tsp fresh lime juice 3 cups finely shredded cabbage 1 cup coarsely shredded carrots 1 cup thin strips red bell pepper (about 1-inch long) 1 pound medium shrimp (31/35), peeled and deveined 1 firm ripe avocado, cut into cubes ½ cup cilantro leaves

Start to finish: 1 hour

Preheat the oven to 375 F. Wrap four tortillas in foil and heat them on the middle shelf of the oven until they are pliable, about five minutes (or wrap them in a moist towel and microwave them for 30 seconds).

Remove them from the foil, brush them lightly on both sides with the oil and carefully (so as not to burn yourself ) drape each tortilla over a metal bar on the middle rack of the oven so that the sides of the tortillas are hanging down and bake them for five minutes.

Open the oven, and using tongs, lift up the tortillas, spread them open a bit by pulling the two sides apart (they will still be pliable), and bake them on the rack for another three to five minutes or until they are crispy all over. Prep and bake the remaining four tortillas following the same procedure.

Meanwhile in a small bowl combine the mayonnaise, yogurt, chipotle, adobo sauce and 1 teaspoon of the lime juice and stir well.

Add salt to taste and about 1 tablespoon water or enough to make the sauce pourable.

In a medium bowl combine the cabbage, carrots, red pepper, remaining 1½ tablespoon­s lime juice, 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil and salt to taste, and toss well.

Preheat the grill to medium. In a medium bowl toss the shrimp with the remaining 2 tablespoon­s oil and salt. Thread the shrimp onto skewers (preferably double skewers) and grill them, turning them once for two to three minutes total or until just cooked through. Transfer to a serving bowl.

To serve: Put all of the components of the tacos — the shrimp, coleslaw, avocado, chipotle cream and cilantro — onto a serving platter and let your guests build their own tacos.

Per serving: 486 calories (249 from fat); 28 grams fat (4 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 150 milligrams cholestero­l; 861 mg sodium; 39 g carbohydra­te; 11 g fibre; 9 g sugar; 21 g protein.

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 ?? SARA MOULTON, THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? Baking will bring tacos to crispy perfection and allow you to shape them into shells in the process.
SARA MOULTON, THE ASSOCIATED PRESS Baking will bring tacos to crispy perfection and allow you to shape them into shells in the process.

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