DELICIOUS SCALLOPED CORN
The other day, I found myself suddenly craving not corn on the cob, but rather old-fashioned scalloped corn.
A quintessentially American comfort food, it’s a homey, bubbling, creamy casserole, crowned with toasted, buttery cracker crumbs. I vividly recall the scalloped corn that I was served for dinner, many years ago, on a small farm in Western Washington, made with freshly picked corn and rich cream from the morning milking. Baked ham and hot biscuits were also served, but scalloped corn was clearly the star.
Scalloped corn is often attributed first to New England. There, any number of other foods are scalloped — potatoes, oysters, clams, onions, tomatoes. The term usually refers to something baked in cream, sometimes with cheese, similar to a French gratin. Cooks differ over whether to use heavy cream, condensed milk or white sauce (béchamel), but nearly all agree that buttered cracker crumbs or bread crumb are essential for the topping.
The seasoning for scalloped corn tends to be fairly restrained: just salt and pepper. For a more flavourful version, an old edition of “The Fannie Farmer Cookbook” suggests adding a few drops each of Worcestershire and Tabasco sauces, and chopped green pepper. Some recipes call for diced ham.
I’m all for increasing the flavour quotient if so inclined. The basic recipe leaves plenty of room for innovation. My scalloped corn relies on diced red bell pepper for colour and sweetness, but a little crushed hot red pepper or chopped fresh Fresno chili would not be amiss. Scallions or chives could figure in. A Southwestern variation might include roasted green chilies and queso fresco.