A smoky lobster salad with authentic Spanish twist
A lobster is not an octopus, nor are the two sea creatures remotely similar at first glance — but I was thinking of octopus the other day when I dreamed up this dish.
I had in mind the traditional Spanish tapa called pulpo a la gallega, a specialty of the Galicia region in northwest Spain. In its simplest form, it is tender, sweet slices of boiled octopus, sprinkled with sea salt, doused with olive oil and dusted with the smoky Spanish paprika called pimentón. If anything can be called a perfect combination, this is definitely in the running.
Even if you never get to Galicia, you can find this four-ingredient wonder in tapas bars all over Spain. In most iterations, a fifth ingredient is added: sliced boiled potato. Customarily, octopus cooked this way is served on wooden plates.
When octopus isn’t available, I reasoned, maybe lobster could be a worthy replacement. It has a firm texture, a briny sweetness and a satisfying meaty succulence.
I have made substitutions with shrimp or squid on some occasions, too. But, with lobsters on hand the other day, using them made perfect sense.
I had briefly considered other options, like lobster salad, bound in a tasty herb mayonnaise or dressed with a vinaigrette. There should be tomatoes, too, I thought. It might taste good on a roll, turned into bruschetta or served on leaves of pale green Bibb lettuce.
Once I had the Spanish octopus dish in mind, however, there was no turning back. Gorgeous cherry tomatoes and ripe red bell peppers at the market also beckoned. I envisioned a composed salad, with all the elements woven together and artfully arranged on a large platter. But, as I began to play with the presentation, simplicity seemed the wiser approach.
I lined up potato slices on wooden plates, topping each with a piece of lobster, a strip of roasted pepper and a halved cherry tomato. Each morsel could be consumed in one or two bites.
Smoky Lobster Salad with Potatoes MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS
Kosher salt 1½ pounds small, yellow-fleshed potatoes, such as Yukon, peeled 2 live lobsters (about 3 pounds) 2 medium red bell peppers 1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved (about 2 cups) 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more to taste 1 teaspoon pimentón (smoked Spanish paprika) A few parsley leaves, for garnish
Time: One hour, plus cooling 1. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil. Add potatoes and lobsters, let the water return to the boil and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove lobsters and let cool to room temperature. Probe potatoes with a small knife to make sure they are fully cooked, then drain and let cool to room temperature. (Alternatively, cook potatoes in a separate pot.)
2. Meanwhile, roast the peppers: Place whole peppers over the flames of a gas stovetop burner turned to high, under the broiler or over a bed of hot coals. Turn the peppers frequently with tongs, allowing the skins to completely blacken, about five minutes. Remove from heat, and place in a bowl.
3. When the peppers cool, cut them in half, top to bottom. Use a spoon to remove the seeds, then place the peppers flat on a cutting board blackened-side up. With a paring knife, scrape away the charred skin and wipe with a paper towel. Don’t worry if a few charred specks remain — do not rinse. Cut peppers into ½-inch-wide strips.
4. Remove lobster meat from shell. (A pair of strong kitchen shears is a good tool to use.) Cut tail meat crosswise into ½-inch slices, and claw meat into similar pieces. Reserve knuckle and head meat for a cook’s treat.
5. To make the salad, slice the potatoes into ¼-inch slices and arrange in one layer on a large platter without crowding. Top each potato slice with a piece of lobster. Drape pepper strips over lobster and decorate with cherry tomatoes.
6. Sprinkle lightly with salt and drizzle generously with olive oil. Dust surface with pimentón. Garnish with parsley leaves and serve at room temperature.