The Hamilton Spectator

Face it, you need some pumpkin to really ring in the season

- CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

THERE ARE SOME major misconcept­ions about brunch, like that it’s just an excuse for people to drink mimosas and bloody Marys before noon. And, well, yes — but the drinks are only the third-best thing about brunch.

Obviously if we’re discussing the merits of this late-morning, earlyafter­noon, weekend-only occasion, we have to address the very best things about it. No. 1: bacon as a side, no matter what you have ordered, since it is the official liaison between sweet and savoury foods.

The No. 2 reason that brunch is the best: dessert for breakfast. Monday through Friday, breakfast should be wholesome, nutrient-filled foods to power you through your day. But on the weekends, brunch menus all over the world are offering us many shapes of cake to break the fast, and it’s just not a fair test of any person’s willpower.

Pumpkin spice is a divisive subject, but whether or not you want it in your coffee (or lip balm), you need a little bit of pumpkin to officially ring in the season. So what better way to pumpkin-ify your life than with a delightful­ly decadent desserttur­ned-breakfast?

For this Pumpkin Bread French Toast, we’ve reverse-engineered a pumpkin bread pudding, which is really just reverse-engineered French toast. First we start with the best pumpkin bread you’ll ever make (and that is still super quick and easy). It’s then sliced, lightly dried, and dunked in a maple-egg mixture.

After a quick cook, it is creamy, dense and just sweet enough to make you feel like you’re breaking the rules. You can pair it with maple syrup, if you like, but if you’re going to go for it, you should really go for it. We’re including a recipe for our favourite Bourbon Crème Anglaise.

It’s easy to make, but you’ll just want to be careful as you add the hot liquid to your egg mixture. If you don’t whisk enough, the eggs will cook, leaving you scrambled eggs. If you have an issue, just strain them out.

Pumpkin Bread French Toast MAKES 10 SERVINGS

Pumpkin Bread: 4 tablespoon­s unsalted butter, room temperatur­e, plus more for greasing 1¾ cups all-purpose flour ½ teaspoon kosher salt 1 tsp baking soda ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp ground allspice 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground nutmeg

½ tsp ground cloves 1½ cups sugar ¼ cup vegetable oil 1 cup unsweetene­d pumpkin purée 2 large eggs 2 eggs ½ cup milk ¼ cup unsweetene­d pumpkin purée 2 tbsp pure maple syrup ¼ tsp kosher salt ½ tsp ground cinnamon 2 tbsp unsalted butter Confection­ers’ sugar, as needed ½ cup dried fruits, like cranberrie­s and golden raisins Spiced Crème Anglaise (recipe below), for serving

Start to finish: 4 hours; active time: 40 minutes

Preheat the oven to 350 F. Grease a 9-in by 5-in loaf pan with butter and set aside.

In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder, allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves. Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the 4 tablespoon­s butter, sugar, and vegetable oil. Mix on medium speed, scraping the bottom of the bowl occasional­ly, until fluffy, about three minutes.

Add the pumpkin and mix until combined, about 30 seconds. Add the eggs one at a time, mixing until incorporat­ed each time and scraping the bowl as needed. Add the flour mixture and mix just until combined, about 30 seconds.

Spread the batter into the prepared loaf pan and bake until a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean, 60 to 75 minutes. Place the pan on a cooling rack to cool for about 10 minutes, then remove from pan and cool completely.

To prepare the French toast, preheat the oven to 300 F. Slice the pumpkin bread into 10 slices and place on a baking sheet. Transfer to the oven and bake until the bread has dried out slightly, flipping once during cooking, about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, whisk together the eggs, milk, pumpkin, maple syrup, salt, and cinnamon in a shallow dish. Once the bread has cooled slightly, melt the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Working in batches, soak the sliced bread in the egg mixture until it softens slightly, about 20 seconds per side. The bread is very absorbent, so be careful not to oversoak or it will fall apart.

Transfer to the hot pan and cook until golden brown on both sides, about two minutes per side. Lower the heat as needed to prevent browning. Transfer to a serving platter as done, dust with confection­ers’ sugar, and garnish with dried fruit. Serve right away with crème anglaise.

Bourbon Creme Anglaise MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

1 cup whole milk 1 cup heavy cream ½ vanilla bean, split lengthwise, or ½ teaspoon vanilla extract ½ cup sugar (divided use) 4 large egg yolks 1 to 2 tablespoon bourbon (optional)

Combine the milk, cream, vanilla bean, and ¼ cup of the sugar in a large, heavy, nonreactiv­e saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat.

Prepare an ice bath if you plan to serve the sauce cooled. In a medium bowl, combine the remaining ¼ cup sugar with the egg yolks. Whisk until thoroughly combined. Temper the eggs by gradually adding about one-third of the hot cream mixture, whisking constantly. Add the remaining cream mixture, return to the pan, and gently cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, six to eight minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in bourbon, if using.

Strain the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve into a pitcher to serve warm, or into a bowl set over the ice bath to serve chilled. Stir the sauce occasional­ly as it cools. Refrigerat­e for at least two hours or up to two days. Per serving of French toast: 320 calories (133 from fat); 15 grams fat (6 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 106 milligrams cholestero­l; 261 mg sodium; 45 g carbohydra­te; 2 g fibre; 26 g sugar; 6 g protein. Per serving of crème: 162 calories (103 from fat); 11 g fat (7 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 109 mg cholestero­l; 23 mg sodium; 12 g carbohydra­te; 0 g fibre; 12 g sugar; 2 g protein.

 ?? PHIL MANSFIELD, THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? Pumpkin bread French toast.
PHIL MANSFIELD, THE ASSOCIATED PRESS Pumpkin bread French toast.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Canada