The Hamilton Spectator

And then there was naan at Masala Corner

- ALANA HUDSON Alana Hudson has cooked at Le Bernardin, Vong and Avalon.

When my companion and I walked into Masala Corner on Main Street West, I wondered whether they do mostly takeout or sit-down. Turns out it’s a little of both.

There was no music to speak of, the vertical blinds were askew here and there, and the fluorescen­t lights don’t make for the hippest atmosphere. However, softer pot lights and a plant in the entry, and vivid lime green and orange walls make it feel bright and welcoming.

A DIY chalkboard menu written in pink, blue and purple on the wall near the counter and kitchen lists “lunch box” options, walk in specials, and dinner combos. The 60-plus other options can be found in the take out menus piled on the counter.

We placed our order at the front, where one guy was running the show: cooking, taking orders and serving food. Styrofoam containers lining the top of the counter serve as the dishes for eat in and take out. Off to one side of the room is a small refrigerat­or with juices, pops and bottled water.

A bright orange mango lassi emerged from the kitchen within minutes. Spot on, for my taste: not too much dairy and plenty of mango flavour. The staffer at the counter was waving to customers, one table at a time, when it was time for them to retrieve their food. After just a short wait, he waved at us. Our tray held lentil soup and papri chat. The soup was a dusty gold colour, viscous with starch. Its spices came through, mild but insistent. Cumin, black mustard and turmeric: a lovely, musty blend that made me want more.

Yogurt dressing and spicy coriander sauce was poured over the papri chat, with some chopped coriander sprinkled on top. The soft, succulent potato filling inside the crisp fried dough wafers absorbed the sauces while the lime and tamarind provided tart counterpoi­nts.

As we ate, we watched as another cook came out of the kitchen to make the naan. He rapidly moved dough back and forth, stretching it out gradually until it was about twice the size of his hands. Then he placed each one inside the clay oven until it got slightly crusty. A brush of oil, then onto the plates and out to the diners. This ritual, repeated throughout the meal, mesmerized my companion.

A generously sized naan arrived on the side of the vegetarian plate my companion ordered (there are vegan options as well), which included fluffy basmati rice, chana masala, aloo gobi, and paneer makjni. The chana masala (chickpeas with ginger and spices) had a fresh tomato backbone and cumin stood out from the rest of the spices.

Soft and comforting, the potatoes in the aloo gobi merged nicely with the turmeric; the cauliflowe­r in this curried dish tasted garden fresh. But the star of the plate, as far as I was concerned, was the paneer with its gentle heat and creamy tomato onion masala sauce atingle with cardamom.

Gulab jamun accompanie­d the savoury selections on the veggie plate. Soaked with sugar syrup, these dessert dumplings were intensely sweet and in stark contrast to the rest of the plate.

Our final tray held two black take out containers: paneer shashlik in one, vindaloo chicken in the other. The shashlik proved a bit challengin­g; its onions and peppers were not cooked through and the dish was a bit dry. The vindaloo was spicy, as I expected. I took a couple of breaths between bites and sips of my drink to soothe the sting, but it was tasty, so worth it.

If you’re looking for reasonable prices and good “Royal Indian and Nepalese cuisine” cooked to order, Masala Corner is an easy stop on Main, in that stretch between McMaster hospital and Dundurn.

After you pass Longwood, slow down and keep to the right.

 ?? CATHIE COWARD, THE HAMILTON SPECTATOR ?? Laxman Kafle, owner of Masala Corner.
CATHIE COWARD, THE HAMILTON SPECTATOR Laxman Kafle, owner of Masala Corner.
 ??  ?? The vegetarian plate included fluffy basmati rice.
The vegetarian plate included fluffy basmati rice.
 ??  ?? Papri chat: a delicious combinatio­n of textures.
Papri chat: a delicious combinatio­n of textures.

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