Incognito worth discovering or revisiting
Next to a red awning, the words “Incognito restaurant and wine bar” pop out on the small facade of the restaurant, on John Street South, between Augusta and King.
Passing by on previous occasions, that red awning always looked a bit mysterious to me.
My companion and I parked on Hunter, around the corner, and strolled over.
Incognito, which opened more than a decade ago, is in an area of downtown that has managed to retain its grittiness. So I was happy to find a comfortable, charming dining room awaiting us. Soft, cloth-backed chairs in a variety of colourful patterns, like an orange and maroon check, neatly pulled up to tables set with water glasses.
Neutral tile on the floor and textured white tiles with pot lights on the ceiling. Accent walls in shades of olive green and rusty red. Warm and welcoming.
The place has the feel of an intimate supper club but offers a more ambitious menu. In that spirit, my partner ordered a martini and I asked for a McGuigan Shiraz, which was offered alongside a few other reds by the glass. There was a page-long list of reds and whites by the bottle, along with after dinner drinks. Many of the wine producers were familiar names like Ravenswood and Oyster Bay, with selections that hover in the medium price range.
Our server (we found out later that it was Mike Daly, one of the owners) took our orders and brought sliced bread with a ramekin of butter in a napkin-lined basket. Its light crust gave way to a gently dense interior.
While we munched, I heard my easy listening favourites of the ’70s and ’80s on the speaker: some Hall and Oates, “Takin’ it Easy” by the Eagles; the theme song by Christopher Cross from the film “Arthur.” Hummable, if you are of a certain age, and relaxing.
The first appetizer arrived on a long rectangle plate with spinach leaves cradling three crab cakes. The mayonnaise with honey and horseradish at one end, while rich and creamy, could have been more flavour-forward. The crust on the cakes was wonderfully crunchy but the crab inside was a little more finely ground than I prefer.
French onion soup seemed a perfect choice for the approaching cold weather. It came au gratin style, its crust of melted cheese topped with a parsley sprig. Steaming hot, with a medium-rich, beefy broth, it carried the sweetness of the onions and had a spicy kick that I was not expecting but appreciated.
After our appetizers, Daly brought out a large, circular white bowl piled with mesclun greens topped with roasted beets. A subtle, maple thyme vinaigrette played off the depth of the warm beets and slightly salty blue cheese. A very good version of beet salad.
Daly was clearly a pro with good timing, friendly but not overly chatty. He steered us toward the prix fixe dinner for my companion, since she had ordered two elements that were included, which ended up being less expensive.
After we grooved to “Africa” by Toto and checked out the abstract art on the wall, which is offered for sale, our entrées came out. My lamb chops were served on a large, circular white plate, surrounded by a classic mix of zucchini, green beans and carrot batons. Its Dijon crust could have been more assertive, but the jus was a nice accompaniment and the potato rosti was excellent. The lamb itself was closer to medium, rather than the medium rare I had ordered.
My companion’s pork tenderloin was done with a subtle Moroccan spice rub. Most people prefer their pork cooked through, but this leaned toward well done and ended up being on the dry side. The apricot and brandy compote, while nice, could have been warmed up a bit more, too.
For dessert, we chose the crème brûlée and some decaf.
Daly put on a fresh pot and brought out a brûlée with a thick layer of hardened caramel. This took a strong crack of the spoon to get through and it dominated the rich, smooth custard. Dots of red and yellow fruit coulis sat on the plate outside of the large ramekin, providing a nice splash of colour and flavour.
We left appreciating much of what Incognito had to offer and were glad to have discovered this cosy haven on the outskirts of downtown.