BOTSWANA SAFARI IS AN EYE-OPENER
RESTAURANT REVIEW
Strolling past black metal gates on James Street North, between Barton and Cannon, we spotted two ornate metallic signs.
The first declared “Wild Orchid” while the second added “Est. 1996.” I guessed that the mural in front of these European-style buildings with apartments upstairs, bearing the name of the restaurant at the top, has been there since the beginning as it’s peeling and worn in sections.
The facade of the place, however, appears to have aged well. Dark grey brick with a series of large archways through which warm interior lights beckoned us. Entering the foyer, we saw a display of articles from various newspapers, including this one, highlighting awards won. From these we gleaned that the chef, Jorge Pereira, has long prided himself on delivering traditional Portuguese food to Hamilton. Our server at one point told us that Pereira stays late every evening and gets there early every day to prepare all of his dishes.
The wine menu reflected that commitment with several reds and whites from Portugal. A few other places are represented as well, including Ontario via Peller Estate. I went with the Lello red, its sharp fruity bite morphing into medium bodied lushness. Our server, an absolute gem, aptly described it as similar to a shiraz.
My companion wasn’t feeling great, so it was herbal tea for her.
Our server has been working there for a little over a year and a half and is well versed in the menu. She steered us toward traditional customer choices at first, but when we said we weren’t averse to eating food off the bone and were willing to try anything, she enthusiastically veered to her favourites.
We went just before Christmas so holiday music was ringing along in the background, bells jingling or chiming gently in almost every song. Creamy yellow walls, rustic wood ceiling beams and hanging Edison bulbs added to the bright and cheery atmosphere.
I felt “obligado” to order the sardines — two whole fish arrived on a long white plate, slices of grilled corn flour baguette on one side. On the other: olives and a side of onion sauce — a ramekin of raw chopped onions and aromatics steeped in olive oil.
The sardines were intense and delicious, just as one would expect. Grilled perfectly, with a crisp skin, the fillets melted in my mouth. Grilled bread provided a slightly nutty character that meshed well with the sardines. Dipping the bread in the onion oil added some bite and the kalamatas served as a palate cleansing foil to the salty fish.
The baked bread, made in house, came stuffed with our choice of filling: chorica (chorizo, a type of spicy Spanish sausage). Shaped in a horseshoe and served on a round white plate with a small mound of garlic aioli between the ends, this flavourful bread (its comforting, in-house quality came through) went well with the filling.
After this, we shared a rapini soup that hit the mark in every way. Served in a beautiful patterned aqua bowl, the soup was a dusty yellow with dark green leaves and bits of Israeli couscous floating on top. The broth’s rich vegetable flavour got a satisfying hit of bitterness from the rapini.
A large group was there celebrating what I assumed was a birthday, with opened presents sitting to the side. They, and the other occupied tables, all seemed to be getting the same excellent service we were. There was audible appreciation for the food.
With such a strong start, I couldn’t wait for the mains.
First, arroz de marisco: Portuguese seafood paella. The single portion (there is also a double one for sharing) was plentiful, served in a gorgeous brass bowl with an attached domed cover which kept the aroma and heat in while doubling as a place to discard the shells. The rice was bathed in a lovely tomato sauce that let the plethora of perfectly cooked seafood shine. Mussels, clams, shrimp and calamari, but the star was the crab, tender and briny.
A black cassoulet held the other entrée: roast rabbit. Hands down, the most tender rabbit I’ve ever had, with roasted potatoes that maintained a hearty texture while soaking up the rich sauce. One quibble: the dish was pretty salty.
We asked about desserts and our server let us know there were custard tarts on offer. We got one to share, encased in a puff pastry that was slightly chewy from having cooked with the custard. A nice, light ending to the evening.
Not often enough do a restaurant’s food and service gel as well as they did for us that night. No bones about it.