The Hamilton Spectator

RIPE BANANA PANCAKES

- ELIZABETH KARMEL

I hate to throw overripe bananas away.

It is such a wasted opportunit­y for fresh fragrant banana bread. But, there is only so much banana bread that one can eat. That is why I asked myself, what else can I make with overripe bananas?

And, since it was Sunday, banana pancakes popped into my head. I had never made banana pancakes with overripe bananas. I usually make them with slices of firm, slightly green bananas because that is how I like to eat fresh bananas. As it turned out, the overripe bananas are way better for pancakes.

I also wanted to try a pancake technique that a friend swears by. You separate the egg and blend the yolk and the white into the batter at different times. It is supposed to make the pancakes lighter. I am not sure that it made that much difference but it is easy to do, doesn’t take any extra time like beating egg whites, and the resulting pancakes were light and fluffy and toothsome all at once.

The recipe is pretty basic with both sour milk and cream used as the liquid. I had cream on hand, but you could use half and half. I opted for cream because my milk was 2 per cent and not whole milk. If I had had whole milk in the fridge, I would have used whole milk and half and half. I also soured my milk with white vinegar, but you could substitute buttermilk for the milk and vinegar combinatio­n.

A touch of nutmeg accented the ripe banana. I mashed the bananas as if I was making banana bread and added it to the batter right before I made the pancakes. The result was incredible, almost like banana bread pancakes. I love how the essence of banana was evident throughout but there were no discernibl­e chunks of fruit.

Most pancake recipes instruct you to heat oil or melt butter in a skillet and “fry” the pancake. I prefer to cook them on a dry non-stick skillet so that they brown and bubble without any extra fat. If you do a side-by-side taste test, you can really see the difference. One looks like the top of a grilled quesadilla and the other resembles a baked good. The non-fried version is softer and more delicate in texture. The fried has a slightly crunchy top and is a bit greasy. Neither is right or wrong, it’s all a matter of preference.

It’s important to serve the pancakes with a good salted butter to bring out the banana flavour, along with real maple syrup. Other good additions are mini chocolate chips, dried coconut, toasted walnuts and pecans. These pancakes are good for breakfast, but even better served as “Breakfast for Dinner” with a side of crispy bacon.

Ripe Banana Pancakes MAKES 18 MEDIUM PANCAKES

1½ cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon granulated sugar ½ plus ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt ½ tsp baking powder ½ tsp baking soda ? tsp ground nutmeg 1 large egg, separated 1 cup milk 1 tbsp white vinegar ¼ cup cream or half and half 5 tbsp unsalted butter, melted 1 ripe banana, mashed with a fork Salted butter and real maple syrup for serving

Start to finish: 25 minutes Heat the oven to 250 F and set a sheet pan with a rack. Set aside

Whisk the flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, baking soda, and nutmeg together in a large bowl. Combine the milk and the vinegar in a 2cup glass measuring cup and let sit one or two minutes. Add the egg yolk, and cream or half and half and mix well. Add the melted butter to the milk and egg yolk mixture and blend with a fork until well combined. Pour the yolk and milk mixture into the flour mixture and stir with a blending fork until barely combined. Mix the egg white in a small bowl until slightly foamy and add the egg white to the batter. Stir just until a thick batter is formed. Set aside for five minutes.

Meanwhile, mash a ripe banana in a separate bowl. Just before cooking, combine the mashed banana and the pancake batter.

Heat a non-stick skillet over medium heat. When hot, use a spoon or a ladle to drop batter in heaping spoonfuls to the pan, allowing room for the batter to spread out. Unlike most recipes, I prefer not to “fry” the pancakes in oil or butter. I like a drier, non-oily finish. If your skillet is non-stick, this will not be a problem.

Cook for one or two minutes, depending on size. When the pancake begins to bubble, use a thin offset spatula to gently flip to the other side. The pancake should be golden brown, if the heat is too high, the pancake will burn on the outside and be uncooked on the inside. Cook on the other side for another two minutes, or until the bottom of the pancake is golden brown.

Remove from the skillet to the baking sheet and place the sheet in the oven while you cook all the batter. Scrape any stray crumbs or scraps out of the skillet as you make the pancakes or the fresh pancakes will pick up the burned bits as they cook. Serve as soon as possible, with salted butter and maple syrup.

Chef ’s note: If cooking for a crowd, this recipe can be easily doubled and extra pancakes can be frozen and reheated with very little difference in taste.

Per pancake: 99 calories (47 from fat); 5 grams fat (3 g saturated; 0 g trans fats); 26 milligrams cholestero­l; 145 mg sodium; 11 g carbohydra­te; 1 g fibre; 2 g sugar; 2 g protein.

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 ?? ELIZABETH KARMEL, THE ASSOCIATED PRESS ?? It’s important to serve the pancakes with a good salted butter to bring out the banana flavour.
ELIZABETH KARMEL, THE ASSOCIATED PRESS It’s important to serve the pancakes with a good salted butter to bring out the banana flavour.

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