The Hamilton Spectator

CRISPY CUTLETS

Versatile breaded chicken is ideal for a weeknight dinner

- BECKY KRYSTAL

It’s hard to beat the versatilit­y of a breaded chicken cutlet — on a salad, in a sandwich, over a bed of mashed potatoes.

The key to evenly cooked, juicy cutlets is using pieces that are thinner than the boneless, skinless chicken breast halves straight out of the package (which often have tenderloin­s attached, the source of chicken tenders).

Thinner pieces will also cook quicker, which is ideal for a weeknight dinner.

Pounding the breasts is a common solution, but that’s a hassle I prefer to avoid.

Plus, I found that the more you pound, the wider they become.

I wasn’t interested in pieces the size of my plate, which are better suited for making schnitzel. Instead, I cut the breasts in half horizontal­ly.

Aim for portions that weigh 4 to 6 ounces and are about ½-inch thick. Some large breasts can even be cut into thirds. It depends on what’s in the package.

Then there’s the matter of breading. So many recipes call for it, but it can be problemati­c.

First you dip the chicken in flour, which helps the egg to stick. Then you dip it in egg, which helps the bread crumbs to stick.

Last, you dip it in bread crumbs, and hope they stay on. I’ve done this manoeuvre many times, and I can’t say I ever enjoyed it — or the mess it makes.

I wanted to find an easier way. The goal: to get a base coat on the chicken so the bread crumbs have something to stick to.

A base coat with flavour is a

nice bonus. Mustard came immediatel­y to mind, as did mayonnaise.

Because I wanted to ensure a crispy outside, I turned to panko, the Japanese bread crumbs whose texture bumps up the crunch even more.

I was so happy with the result I had to wonder why it took me so many years to get here.

The mustard was definitely the more flavourful option, with a tang that still works well in a lot of settings.

Even when generously applied, the mustard does not overpower.

Mayo was acceptable, if bland, but you could also try experiment­ing with flavoured varieties. (We used chipotle-flavoured mayo in one recipe test.)

Quick and Crispy Chicken Cutlets

Makes 2 to 4 servings

Here, we discarded the typical three-part breading (flour, egg and bread crumbs) in favour of a flavourful, crispy combinatio­n of

mustard and panko bread crumbs. You can use a flavoured mayo instead of the mustard, if you prefer.

You can mix up your flavours even more by adding other ingredient­s to the coating, whether it’s Parmesan cheese, fresh herbs or dried spices.

Frying the cutlets in two batches can help ensure an evenly golden crust on all of them. If you have room in your skillet, you can cook all the cutlets at once, but be prepared to move them around for consistent cooking.

Make ahead: The cutlets can be made a day or two in advance and refrigerat­ed.

Reheat in a 350 F oven for 10 to 15 minutes until the crust is crisp and the chicken is warmed through. Or reheat in a skillet with a little bit of oil and cook on both sides.

2 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (8 to 11 ounces each; without tenderloin­s) 2 tablespoon­s Dijon mustard, or more as needed

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup panko bread crumbs, or more as needed

4 tbsp canola or vegetable oil, or more as needed

Use a sharp knife to cut horizontal­ly through each breast half. Move the knife through so the meat eventually opens like a book. Separate the two halves. (Trim and discard any visible globs of fat.)

Spread the panko bread crumbs in a shallow dish, such as a pie plate.

Use a brush or table knife to spread the mustard on the top side of a cutlet. (A thick coating will help the panko stick; apply more liberally than you would, say, a sandwich spread, but you should still be able to see the meat.) Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.

Place the mustard-coated side of the chicken face down in the panko and press to adhere. Coat the other side of the chicken with the mustard, season lightly with salt and pepper and flip to finish coating with the panko. Transfer to a plate; repeat with the other three cutlets, adding more panko to the dish, as needed.

Let the breaded chicken cutlets rest for a few minutes to help the coating set and dry.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large non-stick skillet over medium-high heat. Line a plate with paper towels.

Once the oil shimmers — it will almost ripple — place two of the cutlets in the pan (laying them in away from you, so the end closest to you hits the pan first), leaving room between them.

Cook for about 2½ minutes, until they are golden brown and crisp on the bottom, gently pressing down on the cutlets (a wide spatula is good) to help ensure even browning. If you get hot spots in the pan or if your oil is pooling on the sides, give the skillet a gentle shake to move things around.

Use a fork to turn over the cutlets (tongs may dislodge the breading); cook until the meat feels firm and the second side is deep golden brown and crisp, 2½ to 3 minutes, reducing the heat as needed to keep the breading from burning.

The internal temperatur­e of the meat should register 165 F on an instant-read thermomete­r; when you cut into the centre, no trace of pink should remain. Transfer them to the lined plate.

If you reduced the heat during the cooking of the first batch, return it to medium-high once again, adding more oil as needed; once the oil is shimmering, repeat with the remaining two cutlets.

Serve warm, or at room temperatur­e.

Per serving: 310 calories; 17 grams fat (2 g saturated fat); 85 milligrams cholestero­l; 240 mg sodium; 12 g carbohydra­tes; 0 g fibre; 0 g sugar; 27 g protein.

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 ?? STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG FOR THE WASHINGTON POST ?? Quick and Crispy Chicken Cutlets: You can mix up your flavours even more by adding other ingredient­s to the coating, whether it’s Parmesan cheese, fresh herbs or dried spices.
STACY ZARIN GOLDBERG FOR THE WASHINGTON POST Quick and Crispy Chicken Cutlets: You can mix up your flavours even more by adding other ingredient­s to the coating, whether it’s Parmesan cheese, fresh herbs or dried spices.

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