Riffing on one of the world’s great sandwiches
Vietnamese banh mi gets an elegant upgrade with a decadent crab cake filling
Oddly enough, I first tasted banh mi, one of the world’s most delectable sandwiches, in Albuquerque, New Mexico.
This was decades ago; I was hungry and grabbed one from the checkout counter of a giant Asian supermarket. Two bites in, I was hooked. It was extraordinarily flavourful — sweet, spicy and meaty. For me, it was a pleasant change from the usual New Mexico menu of tacos, enchiladas and tamales (though I love those, too).
There are now, of course, numerous Vietnamese newcomer communities and Vietnamese restaurants, so banh mi is readily available, known to many as a first-rate quick bite. The classic, built in a crisp baguette spread with mayonnaise, contains pâté, thinly sliced ham and roasted pork, along with strips of pickled vegetables, cilantro, cucumber and hot chilies.
Banh mi is, after all, a hybrid, with French colonial roots. The French eventually pulled out of Vietnam, and for the most part, local flavours replaced Gallic ones. But the baguette, mayonnaise and liver pâté remained.
Shops specializing in the sandwich are fairly easy to find, but all are not created equal. Much of their success lies in the bread: ideally a sandwich roll or baguette, with a crisp crust and fluffy interior, and always heated. When I was in Vietnam a few years ago, the bread was warmed over hot coals, kept behind the counter for that specific task.
But at home, you might use your oven — and a kaiser roll, small ciabatta or other small bun. Or look for an old-fashioned airy baguette from a French bakery (not the denser, newwave type).
However much I love them, though, I’m no more than an amateur, one who has gleaned quite a few tips from the California-based teacher and food writer Andrea Nguyen’s book, “The Banh Mi Handbook” (Ten Speed Press, 2014). In it, she offers countless twists on the original, including fillings of grilled chicken, stir-fried beef and char siu pork, and even a Louisiana po’ boy-style banh mi with fried oysters, all of which she claims as authentic.
Emboldened, I decided to make banh mi with miniature pan-fried crab cakes and all the spicy trimmings. It received raves, but I’ve also made banh mi with fried shrimp. Both would be approved by Nguyen, I suspect.
Other options could include mayonnaise-dressed lobster or crab salad.
Crab Cake Banh Mi Sandwich
Makes 2 sandwiches
8 ounces crab meat
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon cornstarch
2 tbsp chopped scallions
1⁄2 cup mayonnaise, preferably homemade
3⁄4 cup fresh soft breadcrumbs 2 tbsp lime juice
1 teaspoon grated ginger
1 tsp fish sauce
1 tsp brown sugar
1 medium carrot, cut into 4-inch julienne strips
1 small cucumber, cut into 4-inch julienne strips Vegetable oil, for frying 2 sandwich rolls or 1 small baguette, cut in 8-inch lengths, warmed until crust is crisp A few lettuce leaves Sliced jalapeño peppers
A few cilantro sprigs
A few basil sprigs
A few mint sprigs
Total time: 30 minutes
1. Place crab meat in a small bowl and season lightly with salt and pepper. Add cornstarch, scallions and 2 tablespoons mayonnaise and mix thoroughly with a fork. Form mixture into 4 balls of equal size. Roll balls in breadcrumbs, and flatten into cakes about ½-inch thick. Pat more crumbs onto the surfaces of each cake, transfer cakes to a plate and refrigerate until ready to cook.
2. In a small bowl, whisk together lime juice, ginger, fish sauce and brown sugar. Add carrots and cucumbers and toss to coast. Set aside for five minutes to pickle slightly.
3. Set a small skillet over medium heat and add oil to a ¼-inch depth. When oil is hot, carefully add crabcakes, using a spatula. Cook for one to two minutes on each side, until nicely browned and crisped. Remove and blot on paper towels.
4. Split the sandwich rolls lengthwise and coat interior surfaces with remaining mayonnaise. Lay lettuce leaves on one side of each sandwich and top each with two hot crab cakes and the pickled vegetables. Sprinkle with jalapeño slices and cilantro, basil and mint sprigs. Serve sandwiches immediately.