The Hamilton Spectator

A deluxe asparagus frittata, topped with burrata

Frittata or omelette? Who cares — just enjoy this dish with a glass of Italian white

- DAVID TANIS

Let’s talk about the difference­s between a frittata and an omelette, but not dwell on them. And let’s praise burrata, that creamfille­d Italian cheese, but not get hung up on it.

Many people consider the savoury Italian frittata to be a flat omelette. But who’s to say omelettes can’t be flat, as they often are in the south of France? And why should the classic filled and folded French omelette have a reason to claim or disclaim any relationsh­ip to the frittata, other than the fact that both are made from beaten eggs?

For our purposes, let’s say a frittata is a mixture of whisked eggs cooked in a frying pan. It can be thick or thin, flipped and cooked entirely in the pan, finished in the oven or under the broiler, or prepared in a baking dish. (It can also be depressing­ly dry and overcooked, but that’s not our goal here.) A frittata is a perfect light lunch or supper accompanie­d by a rather large mixed-green salad — an easy standby when you don’t feel like cooking.

These days, I tend to take the less-is-more approach, with a few herbs and just a bit of cheese, maybe some briefly cooked spinach or asparagus. This recipe, however, goes in the direction of more-is-more, topped just before serving with the creamy burrata and drizzled with an herb-laden pesto.

Get real burrata, straight from Italy, if it is available fresh (but check the expiration date). Otherwise, look for domestic burrata, made with cow’s milk instead of the traditiona­l buffalo milk. Remove it from its brine, and hold it at room temperatur­e. (Or if you can’t get burrata, use some thick slices of ultra-fresh mozzarella.)

Top each serving with about 2 ounces of burrata. Most burrata is sold in 8-ounce parcels, so I often plop the ball in the centre of the frittata before cutting it. The tip of a knife will cause the heady filling to burst forth, to be spooned around.

Paired with a bottle of chilled Italian white, this frittata is positively deluxe.

Asparagus Frittata with Burrata and Herb Pesto

Makes 4 to 6 servings

1 small bunch medium asparagus, tough bottoms removed

1⁄2 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 cup basil leaves, plus a few small basil leaves for garnish 1 cup flat-leaf parsley leaves Salt and pepper

2 tablespoon­s unsalted butter 8 large eggs, lightly beaten

1⁄4 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1 ball of fresh burrata, about 1⁄2 pound, at room temperatur­e

Total time: 30 minutes

1. Rinse asparagus, and pat dry. Cut into 1-inch pieces on the diagonal, or into julienne strips if preferred. Set aside.

2. In blender or small food

processor, purée olive oil, basil and parsley to make a thin pesto. Season with salt and pepper.

3. Put a 10-inch cast-iron skillet or other non-stick omelette pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add butter and swirl to coat pan, then add asparagus. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring for about a minute without browning.

4. Quickly pour in eggs and stir with a wooden spoon, as if making scrambled eggs. Tilt pan and lift mixture at the edges to allow any runny egg from the top to make its way to the bottom. After three or four minutes, the frittata should be mostly set. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese.

5. Lay a lid over the skillet, and turn off the heat. Leave for a minute or so, until frittata is moist and just done. (Alternativ­ely, place pan under a hot broiler for a minute or so.)

6. Set whole burrata in the centre of frittata. Drizzle with herb pesto. Pierce burrata with tip of a knife and spoon contents over frittata. Cut frittata into wedges and serve directly from pan, garnished with basil leaves.

 ?? PHOTOS BY JOHN KARSTEN MORAN NYT ?? A frittata is a perfect light lunch or supper accompanie­d by a mixed-green salad — a good standby when you want something easy.
PHOTOS BY JOHN KARSTEN MORAN NYT A frittata is a perfect light lunch or supper accompanie­d by a mixed-green salad — a good standby when you want something easy.
 ??  ?? An asparagus and egg mixture cooked in a well buttered pan.
An asparagus and egg mixture cooked in a well buttered pan.

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