The Hamilton Spectator

LEMONY WINGS

- DAVID TANIS

Served at a bar or at a casual summer gathering, chicken wings are crowd pleasers, whatever way you prepare them.

The wings can be dressed however you’d like. They’re just as delicious salted, peppered and roasted on a sheet pan as they are with a more complex marinade or sauce.

But at home the other night, I headed in a Greco-Italian direction. I wanted the wings to be very lemony, so more than a few sliced lemons were involved, as were olive oil, garlic and rosemary, plenty of black pepper and a good pinch of hot crushed red pepper.

The wings, baked on a bed of fingerling potatoes, emerged well bronzed and fragrant. I gave them another splash of lemon juice and a sprinkling of dried oregano.

The lemony wings and potatoes are delicious hot and crisp, but just as good at cool room temperatur­e. It’s definitely finger food, though, whether you serve them indoors or out. So no silverware, please — just napkins.

Lemony Roasted Chicken Wings

Makes 6 to 8 servings

2 pounds very small potatoes, such as fingerling­s, whole, or use medium-size yellow-fleshed potatoes cut in halves or wedges

3 pounds chicken wings, preferably drumettes

Salt and pepper

Red pepper flakes, to taste 3 tablespoon­s extra-virgin olive oil

6 small lemons, cut into

1⁄4-inch-thick half-moon slices 6 large rosemary sprigs, leaves stripped

8 garlic cloves, minced, or 1⁄2 cup chopped green garlic shoots

1 cup dry white or rosé wine Pinch of dried oregano (optional)

Total time: about 90 minutes

1. Heat oven to 400 F. Rinse potatoes with lukewarm water and pat dry.

2. Spread chicken wings out on a baking sheet or cutting board in a single layer. Season both sides of wings generously with salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper. Sprinkle with red-pepper flakes as desired.

3. Transfer seasoned wings to a large bowl. Add olive oil, lemon slices, rosemary and garlic and toss well with (plastic-gloved) single layer. Add wine and cover pan tightly with foil.

5. Bake, covered, for about 45 minutes, until potatoes are done. Remove foil and return the pan to the oven and bake about 20 minutes more, until wings are nicely browned. Using tongs, turn wings over and bake for another 20 minutes to brown the wings’ other side.

Sprinkle with dried oregano, and serve hot or at room temperatur­e.

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 ?? JOHN KARSTEN MORAN NYT ??
JOHN KARSTEN MORAN NYT

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