Parting in a Provence state of mind
Mayle’s recollections of discovering the good life, and the aftermath of success
Earlier this year, we lost Peter Mayle, one of the most successful and influential memoirists of our era.
He died at the age of 78, after a brief illness, in his adopted home of Provence, where he spent his last several decades living the dream. So, let’s skip the mourning and, instead, celebrate his life. Not only did he “live the dream, “he practically invented the concept of doing so.
Mayle worked in advertising and, later, authored several sexed books for young people until, in the 1980s, he and wife, Jennie, decided to give up their careers and move from Devon, England, to the south of France. There, Mayle intended to finally write a novel.
Instead, he wrote “A Year in Provence,” a memoir detailing the couple’s adjustment to the quirks of French country life. The book became an international bestseller — one that inspired people to follow their dreams and, arguably, even changed the way people write and think about food and travel.
Now, with the posthumous release of Mayle’s final book, “My Twenty-Five Years in Provence,” it seems like the perfect time to reflect on his legacy. My Twenty-Five Years is, itself, a retrospective, beginning with the author looking back to the nervous thrill he and Jennie experienced with their decision to move to France.
Some of the stories are continuations on the themes from the original book — his love for good, simple rustic food paired with fresh pink wine, the joys of café life and the fun of running into secretive truffle hunters.
Other tales, though, deal with the aftermath of his success. There are some, for example, who blame Mayle for ruining the region, since his memoir inspired more people to explore the countryside of Alpes-de-Haute Provence, as opposed to just hitting the beach towns of the French Riviera.
This only increased after his 2004 book, “A Good Year,” was turned into a film, directed by Ridley Scott and starring Russell Crowe and Marion Cotillard.
Mayle’s writings, though, not only inspired people to explore the French countryside, they encouraged travellers to explore the world differently.
When Mayle took the plunge, he noted that the vast majority of Brits abroad drove around with a car full of biscuits, marmalade and teas — all the comforts of home, so they would never have to be inconvenienced by having to eat the local fare. By contrast, the Mayles left it all behind, fully immersing themselves in the food, drink, language and culture of their adopted home.
They would not be ex-pats with a picturesque hillside home secretly stuffed with packages from Marks and Sparks.
When friends from England visited and offered to bring down British staples, even single malt scotch, the Mayles politely declined.
They had grown to prefer French pastis. Their adventures and attitudes inspired countless people to take leave of their jobs and try out a year in France, Tuscany or even Thailand, to immerse themselves in a new culture.
The Mayle book quickly became the model for travel writing — especially food-focused travel writing — and countless memoirs have followed. Many are about transformation, since the author usually learns about the simple pleasures of “slow food” that emphasizes traditional methods and regional ingredients, which were lacking in North American fast-food culture and British boil-in-the-foil cuisine.
And it wasn’t only writers Mayle inspired to dive into new cultures. That ethos went mainstream, inspiring tourists to walk past Hard Rock Cafés and Burger King outlets in search of the small dives preferred by locals.
North Americans used to seek out the comfort and safety of big chains; these days they’re just as likely to sign up for guided streetmeat tours.
That’s not all on Mayle, obviously. Other factors, including immigration, cheaper flights, social media and demographic changes have all shaped the way we eat, drink and travel.
But “A Year in Provence” should be given its due, since, when he wrote it in 1989, only a few adventurous folks thought beyond chain restaurants, cruises and beach resorts. Some people say millennials are responsible for killing off the chain restaurants and boosting “experience” travel.
That may be true — they’re currently living the dream. But Mayle deserves a lot of credit for having sketched the blueprint for what the dream should look like in the first place.
Christine Sismondo is the author of “America Walks Into a Bar: A Spirited History of Taverns and Saloons, Speakeasies and Grog Shops” (Oxford University Press).