PORTUGUESE FLAVOUR
Toma La has branched out to reach the Stoney Creek/Binbrook crowd.
The original Portuguese Pit Stop is at 1550 Upper James and their new place is just beyond Albion Falls on Rymal, at Trinity Church Road.
My son and I visited the new location, first stopping at the little plaza at the corner to meet up with a buddy of mine. When we went inside, I had the pleasant sensation of being transported to a playfully stylish space with Portuguese accents.
The restaurant has an open, casual feel — high ceilings over its two defined areas: the kitchen, where we could place our order and see chickens glistening as they rotated on the rotisserie, and the dining room: wooden walls in shades of brown, wall mounted TVs playing golf and sports highlights. On one wall, the Toma La logo, a cheeky graphic of a rooster with a shield on its body. Jars of house made piri piri sauce, available for purchase, are displayed throughout the restaurant.
We spent a moment looking at the expansive menu, overhead behind the counter, listing everything from sandwiches, poutine and salads to fish, steaks, pork dishes and whole chicken dinners. But I wasn’t overly familiar with Portuguese cuisine and was glad they also have brochure menus on the counter that give more detailed descriptions of each dish.
An orange ceramic pig looked up at us as we placed our order and followed the chicken footprints painted on the floor to an open table, wooden with simple metal chairs. A small counter to one side held condiments and cutlery.
First out: an appetizer of queijo and chouriça (cheese and sausage). Served in a clay bowl with a wavy blue pattern painted around its sides, the cheese was cut like a cake, into five thick slices. Drizzled with a spiced olive oil and topped with a slice of roasted red pepper, it came with pieces of vinegary sausage to the side, which I loved — so piquant! The sausage served as a nice ying to the yang of the soft, fresh cheese. So far, so good.
The server returned with three more dishes. The first, also in a painted clay bowl, was a thick piece of nicely cooked salt cod, slathered with caramelized onion and red pepper. This is described on the menu just as “cod,” and the meaty texture of the salted fish was a pleasant surprise. The veggies on top of the fish, along with rice on the side strewn with peas, corn and cilantro, made the dish savoury and light.
My friend is not an overly adventurous eater but she liked the lightly spiced rice and fish. Her quarter chicken dinner came with rice and a side salad with a slightly tangy vinaigrette that had a touch of honey. The chicken was pretty tender, its skin infused with delicious smoky flavour.
My son ordered picanha à Brasileira (grilled Brazilian steak). If you are a meat lover, this is the dish for you — steak with a side of sausage. Really, if you love meat, this is the restaurant for you — barbecue chicken gets its own menu category.
The steak was tender and cooked perfectly, with herbs and spices providing a flavourful boost (I tasted coriander and paprika). The sausage (meat with more meat) was tasty, so why not? One lacklustre element: the fries on the side, barely seasoned and not very crispy.
The house made piri piri sauce was delicious with everything. A vinegary tang, with a gentle, chili-fuelled heat coming at the end. Neither of my companions are lovers of hot spice, yet they both liked it.
A display case containing custard tarts and some pastries caught our eye at the end of the front counter, and we ordered a couple to try. I asked the server if they were made here and she said that a bakery in Mississauga supplies the majority, but she had made the chocolate pudding and a large tart.
That made me wish we had ordered some of the large tart since the pudding was so satisfying. Chocolate through and through, nice and thick.