The Hamilton Spectator

Answers to your car questions

- DENNIS O’SULLIVAN

FEEDBACK ABOUT LAST WEEK’S COLUMN

A couple of weeks ago, Michael from Waterloo, had a problem with his 2001 Acura 1.7EL which was losing coolant. I suggested that there might be a water pump problem or some kind of restrictio­n in the coolant flow, such as an internally collapsed hose. I also suggested that he go to a quality CAA approved radiator shop and ask them to do a coolant leak test and a coolant flow test. After that diagnosis, he would be able to make an informed decision about getting it fixed.

I had about four technician­s suggest other possibilit­ies and one was from Clare Snyder, who is a Retired Auto Mechanic and Instructor from Waterloo, Ontario.

SUGGESTION FROM CLARE SNYDER

“Check and replace the radiator cap. The system is supposed to pressurize and when the coolant expands, it pumps it into the overflow container or “burp can.” When the system cools down and the coolant contracts, it is designed to draw the excess coolant back into the system, making sure there is never air in the coolant system to gurgle. If the vacuum valve on the cap is not working or there is a vacuum leak in the hose to the burp tank, the fluid does not return to the system. The “smoking gun” here is having to remove fluid from that overflow tank, while having to add to the radiator. If the cap is OK, check for any possible vacuum leak in the cooling system (may be as simple as a slightly loose hose connection – which would be worse in the winter – check for stains at all hose connection­s.” Clare Snyder Retired Auto Mechanic and instructor Waterloo Ontario

QUESTION

Is it okay to pressurize the tires about five pounds past its maximum pressure? I have been doing this for years when I am having a trip with four or more people in the car and I have never had a flat tire or ruined a tire. I was in getting my oil changed and the attendant told me that my tires were all overinflat­ed and that it would be dangerous to drive with the tires overinflat­ed. I told him that that is the way that I want it and he made me sign on the work order that I wanted him to leave the pressure alone. I have since looked up this practice and it is recommende­d that one should not overinflat­e the tires. What do you think?

Bob from Oakville

ANSWER

I think that the person suggesting to you, that the tires should not be overinflat­ed, was correct and that he should have set the tire pressure properly in spite of what you wanted, in order to protect the garage from being liable, had you had a mishap when you left their premises. Putting on the work order that the owner wanted to have overinflat­ed tires would not have protected him from a possible liability suit, had an accident occurred and the overinflat­ed tires were the cause. Overinflat­ed tires will cause the centre of the tires to wear out much faster than the outer parts of the tires, which also decreases the traction and stability of the tires on certain road conditions. Look on your car’s door jam for the manufactur­er’s recommende­d tire pressure. The general recommende­d tire pressure on most passengers’ vehicles is between 206 P or 241 P (30 and 35 PSI). The maximum pressure listed on the tire sidewall is not the recommende­d tire pressure and should not be mistaken for the proper vehicle’s recommende­d tire pressure.

QUESTION

A few weeks ago, a reader asked about the automatic key fob working on all doors except the driver’s door. I have a 2006 Honda Accord and have the same issues. I had new batteries installed at the dealership and all, except the driver’s door, work as before. Hope you are able to offer the next step solution. Thanks very much and our family really do appreciate the work that you do. Ian from Burlington

ANSWER

I would be interested to know if the driver’s door lock works from the main door lock switch. If the remote works on the other doors, there is probably nothing wrong with the remote. This leaves two possibilit­ies: the Lock Actuator or the Passenger Multiplex Computer. I would try first to get your licensed technician to remove the ground cable of the car battery for about one minute and then reconnect it. Sometimes things just need to reset themselves. You may have to again set your clock and radio. If I were to try and diagnose the problem, I would first start by checking the connection on the driver’s door actuator or the actuator itself. The driver’s door actuator or a broken harness, between the car frame and the door, is generally the reason for the door lock not working. PS: To my readers: If possible, it would be appreciate­d if your emails would indicate the town, city or village that you live in. Please be advised that not all emails can be answered. Send your questions (be sure to include your address) by email to:: dennis. osullivan@cogeco.ca

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