The irresistible allure of pork and fennel
While window shopping the other day, I had a sudden hankering for some fine, fat pork chops.
I saw them — fetchingly displayed by the Italian sausage in the refrigerated case of a neighbourhood butcher shop (the kind that are sadly disappearing) — and I craved them. If there was a moment’s hesitation, let us say the chops won out.
I wasn’t sure how I would prepare them, but I knew that fennel would play a large role. And I knew they would be taking at least a brief bath in a salty brine.
Pork and fennel are often companions, and the flavour combination is exceedingly delicious. As some wise cook long ago discovered, fennel’s sweet flavour and perfume pair perfectly with pork.
Think of Italian sausage, sweet or hot, which nearly always contains fennel seeds. Think of porchetta, the famous Italian pork roast, which is usually seasoned generously with fennel seeds and wild fennel fronds, along with herbs, garlic and black pepper.
As for the brine, immersing pork chops in it always improves their flavour and texture. More than just salt water, most brines contain a bit of sugar, as well as aromatics like allspice and bay leaves. (I added a teaspoon of crushed fennel seeds to mine.) For best results, let the chops soak for at least a few hours, preferably overnight.
Making a wet brine is easy, but if you haven’t the time, you can get a similar result with a dry brine, a seasoned salt mixture. Stir some crushed fennel seeds and coarsely ground black pepper into a couple of tablespoons of salt. Sprinkle both sides of the chops with the seasoned salt and leave them for at least an hour before cooking. (Alternatively, wrap and refrigerate the seasoned chops to cook the next day.)
Since I craved pork, but also vegetables, I found some lovely medium-size fennel bulbs at the market. Sometimes called Florence fennel, it is often thinly sliced and eaten raw in salads, but it is delicious cooked, too. I cut it on the thick side and combined it with sliced onion, sautéed it in olive oil, and then goosed up the flavour with fennel seed and garlic.
I placed the pan-seared chops on top and popped the whole affair into the oven for about 20 minutes. So, you see, aside from the brining, it’s really a simple dish to put together. The pork emerges tender, moist and flavourful, and the fennel-onion compote delightfully unctuous.
Brined Pork Chops with Fennel
Makes 2 to 3 servings
For the brine:
1⁄4 cup kosher salt
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 bay leaves
6 black peppercorns, lightly crushed
6 allspice berries, lightly crushed
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, lightly crushed
2 bone-in pork chops, about 12 ounces each
For the pork chops:
2 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, sliced 1⁄4-inch thick
3 or 4 trimmed fennel bulbs, about
1 pound, sliced 1⁄4-inch thick
Salt and pepper
2 garlic cloves, minced
1⁄2 tsp fennel seeds, crushed
2 tbsp roughly chopped parsley A few tender green fennel fronds
Total time: 30 minutes, plus brining
1. Make the brine: Put salt, sugar, bay leaves, peppercorns, allspice and fennel seeds in a bowl. Whisk in 4 cups of water to dissolve salt and sugar.
2. Put pork chops in one layer in a glass or plastic container. Pour brine over to completely submerge chops. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours, preferably longer, up to overnight.
Remove chops from brine and pat dry. Discard brine.
3. Cook the chops: Heat oven to 400 F. Set a wide, heavy skillet over high heat and add olive oil. When oil is wavy, add chops in one layer and let brown for about three minutes per side.
4. Remove chops from pan and set aside. Reduce heat to medium-high and add sliced onion and fennel, stirring to coat with oil. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until beginning to colour, about five minutes. Stir in garlic and crushed fennel seeds and turn off heat.
5. Lay the chops on top of the onion-fennel mixture (alternatively, transfer all of it to a baking dish) and place pan, uncovered, in oven for 20 to 25 minutes, until the internal temperature of chops is 140 F.
6. Remove chops and let rest for about five minutes. Transfer onion-fennel mixture to a platter and keep warm.
Cut chops into 1/8-inch slices and add to platter. Sprinkle with parsley and garnish with fennel fronds.