WELL ROUNDED
Go West, young man! But stay within a radius of 100 kilometres.
Gordon Goss, executive chef, heeded that call in 2017, working his way from Toronto’s Canoe to restaurants in Oakville. Goss now lives in Hamilton and, in our post-dining chat, reports that he is loving the city and its exploding food scene.
radius occupies a Corktown heritage building that, 150 years ago, was home to prominent Hamiltonian Isaac Buchanan. New management was announced in June 2018, and Goss is confident that great things lie ahead. The restaurant’s name refers to the goal of sourcing ingredients from within a 100 km radius. Many diners care about the ecological benefits of this philosophy, which also supports an impressive list of independent local purveyors such as Boyle Bros. Greens, Rodney’s Oysters, and The Cheese Boutique.
Entering radius at midday, choose between the low-lit lounge or light-filled dining room. The decor features vintage photos, wood finishes, exposed brick, crystal chandeliers and 16-foot original tin ceilings. There is a seasonal patio and interior spaces for group events.
On this weekday, the dining room was occupied by an eclectic mix of seniors, suits and 20-somethings. The restaurant is familyfriendly during the day, early evening and for Sunday brunch. With dinner themes and an “After Dark” DJ / bar scene, lunch is a tiny slice of all they offer. Menu options included a burger, seafood, chicken, steak, pastas and salads, with vegan and gluten free selections.
“Quick 3 & Out” is a prix fixe menu designed to “get you back to the office in under an hour.” How do they do that? They bring your starter, main and dessert all on one rectangular plate — no waiting between courses.
While it was enough food for a lunch, we tried other offerings. The Bacon & Bourbon Meatballs sharing plate was moist and flavourful. Succulent pork and beef meatballs nestled atop sweet potato mash. A great taste combo, though the crispy fried shallot garnish was not crispy. We noted a difference in texture and taste with one meatball, and got confirmation that it was lamb — a slip that came with an apology.
We ordered another sharing plate — Avocado Toast — easy to make at home, but expectations are raised in a restaurant. We were expecting an artful display of avocado on a slice of toasted, rustic bread. This version promised a soft boiled egg, coriander, and lime. What appeared was attractively garnished, but was
built on two slices of nondescript multigrain sandwich bread, with mashed avocado in between and on top. The egg was done to perfection and the sweet pea tendrils were enjoyed, but there was no sign of coriander or lime. If it was toasted, the effect was lost since it did not appear until after we’d begun our mains.
The first course of the “Quick 3” was soup or salad. The tomato soup, rich and fresh, was seasoned with smoked paprika — not mentioned on the menu and perhaps not to every diner’s taste. The Berlin potato soup was the highlight of the meal. A rich broth offered up house-smoked bacon, sausage, scallions and pretzel chunks. Part of the Oktoberfest menu, it would be a hit any time. Next, the Reuben: pastrami, sauerkraut, house-made Russian dressing, Gruyère on toasted rye with mustard and dill pickle. This was an overall hit, despite the bread being a touch over-toasted.
But the shrimp and crab salad sandwich might have looked more appetizing had the salad shrimp been left whole. The expected mayo dressing was instead vinegary, leaving the croissant soggy. The inclusion of chopped red onion, grilled asparagus and pea shoots did add texture and flavour, however. Shoestring fries ordered as a side never arrived. Apart from the missteps, service was welcoming and pleasant.
The desserts, served in ever-trendy tiny Mason jars, were Chocolate & Framboise Pot au Crème, and Lemon and Blueberry Panna Cotta. A short and sweet ending to the meal.
Local microbreweries are supported and the wine list features Niagara and B.C. along with international selections. Cocktails are creative and include an Old Fashioned as a tribute to Isaac Buchanan.
radius supports fundraising for various charities, displays works of local artists, and offers a venue for local musicians. Goss participates in Hamilton food events such as Chef Wars, where he has excelled.
While radius has talent in the kitchen and impresses with highquality ingredients, the results when we visited in October were uneven. They launched a promising new menu on Nov. 9 which Goss says is inspired by travel, childhood memories, and the foods that chefs love to eat at the end of their shift.