The Hamilton Spectator

Answers to your car questions

- DENNIS O’SULLIVAN

QUESTION

I have a 2013 Audi that I have had since new and it now needs brakes all way around. The car has 160,000 kilometres and this is the first brake job for the car. The Audi dealer wants over twelve hundred dollars to do the brakes and I obtained another estimate from a local garage that I sometimes use to do the oil changes on the car. Their quote for the full brake job was just under eight hundred dollars. My question to you is why the huge difference in the cost? Is the dealer trying to rip me off? Albert from Hawkesvill­e

ANSWER

You have not given me much to go on as to what exactly both garages are quoting you on. If the less expensive garage is using after market parts then there is a big difference in the cost of the parts so that could be one reason. The second possibilit­y is that the door rate is most likely higher at the dealership because their technician­s are more highly qualified to work on Audi vehicles. It is amazing that you drove over 160,000 kilometres on the original brake pads and their hardware. I can assure you that you will not get that kind of mileage on after market parts. You have to determine if you are going to keep the car for another 160,000 kilometres or are you going to need another brake job at around 70,000 kilometres, which in the end will cost you more.

QUESTION

I did a foolish thing the other day when the wipers were frozen to the windshield of my car. I took a boiling hot kettle of water and pored it on the wipers. It did loosen the wipers but the lower part of the windshield in now cloudy. Has this weakened the windshield and will the cloudiness spread to the complete windshield? If it stays out of the driver’s vision, do I have to do anything about it and will that cloudiness go away in the summertime? Marlene from Burlington

ANSWER

The windshield is an integral part of the safety on any vehicle and anytime that you have a crack or stone chip in the windshield that is not repaired, the safety aspect of the windshield is compromise­d. I have never heard of a windshield going cloudy after hot water was used but I have seen a windshield crack as a result of using hot water. Without seeing the windshield, I cannot advise you as to what you should or should not do. I would suggest however that you visit the dealer to let them have a look at the windshield and then be guided by their advice.

SUGGESTION­S FROM READERS CONCERNING LAST WEEK’S COLUMN

You would not think that a stuck tractor wheel would generate so much feedback from the readers of my column. Danny from Dunville had an old Massy Ferguson tractor and for the past two years, he has done everything that he could think of to loosen a rear wheel so that a leak in the tire could be repaired. Apparently, the tire had a slow leak and required air to be added every other week. My suggestion to Danny was to slightly loosen all wheel nuts and then go and plough a field. Apparently this worked for a farmer a couple of years ago. Here are a few suggestion­s from many that I received. Norman from Lynden does not agree that the plough field remedy should be attempted.

Norman suggests the following: “In regards to removing a tractor wheel that is frozen to the hub. This should only be attempted on a concrete floor: jack up the wheel and then lower the tractor so it’s supported by a strong jack stand. Loosen but do not remove the wheel studs and apply heat to the rim in a circular motion six or so inches out from the hub. Do this for a few minutes to expand the metal and then use a heavy sledgehamm­er to give the rubber tire a few whacks at the bottom. Repeat if necessary. An oxygen/Acety- lene torch is needed to get the required heat. Garages often have these portable outfits. I strongly advise against using the ploughed field method.”

My Comment: I cannot indorse the method suggested by Norman because I do not know if Danny is qualified to use an acetylene torch.

Bill from Guelph explained how he loosened a stuck wheel on his tractor. He said that he tied his tractor to a tree with a chain after he had loosened the wheel nuts and that loosened the wheel.

My comment: I cannot endorse this method either.

Harry from Simcoe wants to solve Danny’s problem by buying the tractor from him.

Clare from Cayuga wants Danny’s phone number and he will, for fifty dollars, get the wheel loose.

My Comment: I will pass these options on to Danny.

Finally Glen from Waterloo, after owning an old Massy Ferguson and not being pleased with it, suggests that Danny drive his tractor into the lake and forget about it.

My Comment: I cannot endorse this either.

QUESTION

I enjoy your weekly column in the Hamilton Spectator. Recently, I replaced the battery in my 2012 Fiat 500, 4 cylinder. I am assuming that this was an original 500 cold cranking amp battery because of the plastic cover that has two pins that fit over the positive terminal. The battery that I replaced it with is a 650 CCA battery that has the same two holes in the top of the battery that fits the positive terminal protector. My question is this: by putting in a 650 CCA battery instead of a 500 CCA battery, will this put a strain on the alternator charging system - maybe not now but a few years down the road? Thanks, Dave from Grimsby

ANSWER

Going from a 500 CCA battery to a 650 CCA battery will not affect the alternator charging system. The 650CCA battery will however, give you much better cranking power in the winter so you have made a good choice. To my readers: Please indicate the town, city or village that you live in. Be advised that not all emails can be answered. Send your questions (including address) by email to:: dennis.osullivan@cogeco.ca

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