FOOD, FUN, NOSTALGIA
Food, setting, service — three keys to the dining experience. At Pete & Kay, the comfort food will satisfy, and the setting and service are major draws.
Fans of the now-closed Jack & Lois diner have long awaited this opening. While that location was named after owner Eric Bowden’s paternal grandparents, Pete and Kay are his maternal grandparents — and Kay still visits from Dunnville, the home base for both sides of the family.
Since their sign is not yet up, you arrive at a duplex house on King Street West wondering if you have the right address, and step into what could be a vintagethemed stage set. Not surprising, when you find out that Bowden has experience in film production. The decor, inspired by the homes of both sets of grandparents, is dominated by chrome-and-Arborite tables and chairs, and kitschy knick-knacks that many diners will recognize.
Even if Bowden didn’t offer food, you might enjoy wandering around this “blast from the past.” His goal is to offer the food and feelings of his childhood — comfort food in a comfortable, family-friendly setting.
The service comes mainly from Bowden himself, who is like everyone’s favourite brother, son, grandson — meaning that the diners range widely in age. He is welcoming and friendly, aiming to give you an optimal and personalized experience. The mood is contagious and customers are neighbourly, some even offering advice about the menu as they pass by your table.
The menu will be recognizable to Jack & Lois fans, and Bowden says it will continue to evolve. It offers tried and true diner breakfast options — eggs any way with a range of protein sides, yogurt parfaits, pastries and bagels. The bagels are from Gryfe’s — now in Toronto, but founded in Hamilton more than a century ago. And you have the option of topping your bagel with salmon from Norway.
Breakfast is offered all day, though by midday you may be more interested in soups, salads and sandwiches — or, as we were — the burgers, grilled cheese, and mac and cheese. On Sundays, they switch to a brunch buffet that includes eggs Benedict.
We began with the vegetarian Stuffed Angels — wonton wrappers filled with beans, corn, caramelized onions and spices, and served with garlic aioli and Thai sweet chili dips. Crunch is one of the most popular food textures and I’d have been happy with only these crispy flavour bursts.
Of the eight burger choices, the Mac Daddy came highly recommended. Seven ounces of fresh beef (from Jepson’s in the Hamilton Farmers’ Market) is cooked to your preference on a flat top, then topped with secret sauce and lettuce, and served with coleslaw and a kosher pickle. This is a “fat style” burger, oozing with flavourful juices, enjoyed with pleasing onion rings. They also serve turkey and vegetarian burgers.
All three grilled cheese options are made using large Calabrese loaves, ensuring you will get sizable portions. A guest advised us to have the Mona Lisa — bocconcini, aged cheddar, spinach, cherry tomatoes and balsamic reduction.
Recreating childhood comfort foods can be problematic. We don’t all have the same food memories. My dining partner recalls grilled cheese made from a challah loaf, and for me it was always buttery and gooey,
made with white bread and served with sweet gherkins. So for me, while Pete & Kay’s hearty grilled cheese did not evoke comfort food memories, it was crisp and richly flavoured.
The Mac N Cheese side was creamy and made from cavatappi (corkscrew-shaped) pasta. It was nicely presented, with a seasoned crunchy panko topping but with a mild flavour that needed the addition of salt and a different kind of cheese, packing more of a flavour punch. Mind you, we forgot to drown it in ketchup — isn’t that what people do?
We were so satisfied we forgot about dessert, but there is a pastry chef who will tempt you with baked sweets and savouries. Venture upstairs and you will find dining room tables and a retro bar. This space, which is licensed and can be rented, offers a dinner menu which is a step up from the diner-style food downstairs — such as mouth-watering steak, Mediterranean pasta and a lobster mac and cheese.
Food, family and a spirit of fun are clearly on the menu at Pete & Kay. Looking ahead, watch for weekly features that may be based on your own family recipes. You may be invited to play your old vinyl records, and share old family photos. Their Instagram feed is the only place to get news about menus, hours and announcements — such as the patio coming in the spring.