ABERDEEN SATISFIES
Much more than a special occasion destination
It is uplifting to be in Aberdeen Tavern’s light-filled space, originally designed as a bank almost 100 years ago. Some say it was the most robbed bank in Ontario. Point the getaway car in the right direction and you’d be two minutes away from the highway. Mind you, the 403 was not there until about 1965.
We dined during “WinterEats” — a limited time prix fixe offering, but we also ordered from the regular menu. Promotional prix fixe menus sometimes deliver lower standards, but in this case quantity and quality were outstanding.
We began with bread and dips — featuring two of my favourite breads from de la terre bakery — toasted sour dough olive, and rosemary focaccia. The hummus dip was very good. The white bean dip has me motivated to make this at home. The tapenade was pleasantly surprising; the rosy coloured mixture of Niçoise and green olives with sun-dried tomatoes was a complex flavour combination, taken further with a bit of heat from chili paste.
Our appetizer from the prix fixe menu was cured salmon salad — house cured using brown sugar, salt and spices with notes of ginger. Excellent on its own, it was served with gribiche — a French cooked egg/mayo creation that perfectly balanced the pleasantly salty salmon.
Good moment to mention that chef de cuisine John Forcier, director of culinary operations for all four Equal Parts establishments, has experience with French cooking techniques. Having come to Hamilton from Canoe in Toronto, he says he was welcomed by the thriving restaurant community and — despite roots in Georgetown, Ont. — now feels Hamiltonian through and through. He says that for now, Aberdeen Tavern will focus on cuisine that is familiar, offering comfort. Taverns, after all, have historically served weary travellers.
My appetizer was shrimp tagliatelle — perfectly prepared black tiger shrimp nestled on pasta and spinach, floating in a sauce of lemon and Parmesan. Again, the tiny addition of chili paste made this another dish with a warm mouth feel that lingered until our next course.
Braised beef sitting atop polenta was the prix fixe choice. The portion was generous, fall apart tender and succulent. A French style braise would have used red wine; this one featured molasses, Worcestershire sauce and chili. The polenta took its bold flavour from cheddar. The crispy onion garnish was indeed crispy.
From the à la carte menu, the branzino (a European sea bass) was a beauty. This white-fleshed fish appears often on restaurant menus, likely because of its delicate and sweet flavour. The perfectly crisped skin was garnished with sweet pickled mustard seeds that added a nice pop to the fish texture and flavour. Two generous portions were plated on cauliflower purée, braised red cabbage and mustard greens. Apart from feeling righteously healthy eating three vegetables, I found it supremely flavourful.
When dining out, we may not always be hungry for dessert, but not having it can feel like leaving a play before the final act. Some rules apply: dessert must be eye candy, super flavourful, and light in experience if not in calories. We selected chocolate fudge cake with vanilla chantilly (sweetened, flavoured whipped cream), and white chocolate cheesecake served with sour cherry compote. Neither rose to the standard set by all that came before. The chocolate cake was poorly plated and the addition of cream did not mask that it was a bit dry. “‘Fudge” and “white chocolate” should have been our clues that the desserts would be heavy. Another choice would have been a better ending for an otherwise spectacular meal.
The setting for all of this is slightly Old World with dark accents — some wood panelling, rustic but polished wood tables and floors. A fireplace focal point is graced with antique candlesticks and hunting trophies. The white walls display oil portraits of people from another era. Wait staff in jeans, white shirts, vests and long aprons also seemed like something from another era, but — along with warm, unpretentious service — added to the ambience.
Diners ranged in age, leaning toward more mature vs. a “bar scene” crowd, but there is an impressive bar at the back of the room under funky chandeliers. The well balanced drinks menu includes the latest trend — “0% Cocktails” — one based on the new Seedlip distilled non-alcoholic spirit. “Family-friendly” is noticeable, especially at their Sunday brunch.
Some people think of Aberdeen Tavern as a “special occasion” destination. It can fit that bill, but that’s a narrow view. There are menu offerings that enable you to enjoy an affordable meal at lunch or supper.
The second level, called The Apartment, is a lovely space that can be used for larger groups and special occasions. In the summer, they have a stunning patio that may be one of Hamilton’s best kept secrets.
Pretend you’re a weary traveller, snuggle into Aberdeen Tavern and enjoy an exceptional meal.
Diane Galambos is a food writer who shares stories and recipes at her blog kitchenbliss.ca.