Infuse yourself with South American food
Flavours Latin Cuisine brings the tastes of Peru and Colombia to Hamilton
If you need a boost on a grey winter day, consider stepping into Flavours Latin Cuisine.
The space, filled with light and colour, is a delight whether you’re doing a quick takeout or limited dining in (according to red zone regulations).
The murals, painted by Julio Morales, portray on one side local scenes such as the Skyway bridge. On the other side are representations of South America that, along with vintage lighting, create a rustic vibe.
Carlos Lavalle co-owns the eatery with Jhon Arce — the former being Peruvian and the latter Colombian. On the weekends, Lavalle joins his Venezuelan wife, Maria, who puts out your food order.
Lavalle points out that for eight years in a row World Travel Awards has cited Peru as the best culinary destination, calling it “a sensational gourmand paradise” with Michelinstarred restaurants in Lima and great food throughout the country.
The plan for Flavours is a sort of fusion of the cuisines linked to the operators’ countries of origin, with some provisos. The menu focuses on snacks and street food and the fusion of the three cuisines is open to bending rules. Lavalle stresses that they are not rigidly following traditions or using recipes from grandmothers — an approach that gives them the flexibility to respond to patrons’ preferences. He also stresses that the food is not “Latino,” but South American.
Flavours first opened briefly in March 2020 just before the first pandemic shutdown, then reopened in the summer with a patio.
The only things they sold at first were patacones. Much loved in Venezuela and Colombia, these are well known in other countries, often referred to as tostones. Twice-fried plantain slices which can be eaten like chips are, at Flavours, used like “buns” filled with protein and/or vegetables — resulting in a gluten-free “sandwich.” An entire section of the menu lists six variations including steak, pork and mushrooms.
Plantain, by the way, is a prominently featured menu item, used in everything from starters to desserts. They look, behave and taste like potatoes and become sweeter as they ripen. We ordered the patacones short flight — shredded chicken breast topped with lettuce, cheese blend, tomatoes, and a flavourful signature sauce.
Arepas were soon added to the menu and are very popular. Ground maize dough acts as a bun filled with nine choices of protein and/or vegetables. Arepas are eaten daily in many parts of South America, subject to regional differences. If your prior arepa experiences have involved a soft bun, note that this is, like the patacones, fried. The Arepa Cerda filling was slow-roasted pulled pork (cerda) with sweet fried plantains and a cheese blend.
Whereas some cuisines, such as Indian or Moroccan, use signature spice blends, South American cuisine is characterized more by its use of chilies which vary in heat. Sauces are also a feature and at Flavours they are all made in-house — aji hot pepper, tartar, garlic, mayochup (mayonnaise and ketchup) and chimichurri (usually parsley, cilantro, garlic, oil and vinegar). If you are dining in, you’ll be sitting at a table with squeeze bottles of all these sauces on the table, free to use them to your taste. The sauces greatly enhance the flavour experience. Next time I’d order them in extra quantities if doing takeout.
The mini empanadas, one of seven starters, delivers five maize dough turnovers stuffed with stewed beef and potatoes, and served with spicy chili pepper aji sauce. Chicken or vegetable options are available.
If you crave a side with your order, try the salchipapas — a common Peruvian/Colombian street food. Slices of chicken sausages and potato fries (papas) are mixed together with sweet plantains, shredded mozzarella and corn kernels. This dish sounded appealing but did not do well in the face of a 15minute trip home. The fries were limp and all the promising ingredients were fused into a cold mass that did not respond well to being reheated. Experienced hot from the kitchen, it would likely be a real treat.
The Flavours Instagram account posts updates on specials which are often interesting and iconic dishes. Anticuchos, for example, are barbecued skewers which can be made from any kind of meat, but traditionally — and at Flavours — they are made from veal hearts. Weekends often feature other barbecued items as well.
There is a children’s menu and great dessert options. Alfajores cookies are filled with amazing dulce de leches — a milk-based caramel — which also serves as a dip for fried plantain churros, sprinkled with cinnamon sugar. In addition, they make a classic flan — a sweet, creamy custard bathed in a dark caramel sauce.
The Flavours team looks forward to a time when they can welcome guests back to patio and indoor dining. Lavalle says they have big surprises in store for 2021.