The Hamilton Spectator

Save a few dollars and still get all the flavour

- Carolyn Evans Hammond

The average spend on a bottle of wine at the LCBO is less than $15 per 750mL, even if that “bottle” is actually a box. These stats show wine is an indulgence for most of us — a splurge, really. So when a delicious, inexpensiv­e wine at the liquor store goes on sale, it’s worth knowing about.

To help you drink better and save money, here are the best bargains at the LCBO right now — and a few to avoid — starting with a Rhône red. The 2018 Les Dauphins Côtes du Rhône Reserve Red

AOC from France (LCBO 385385 $11.95 till Feb. 28, reg. $13.95) is a brilliant bargain. Juicy and satisfying, this blend of Grenache and Syrah delivers ripe berry goodness without being too rich or palate tiring. It’s a supremely drinkable wine that works as well on its own as it does served with food. In fact, it would be incredible with a big pot of fondue. Score: 93

Also from France and well worth the dosh is the 2018 Gérard Bertrand Réserve Spéciale Cabernet Sauvignon from the South of France (LCBO 234815 $12.05 till Feb. 28, reg. $14.05). Each sip fans out with marvellous complexity — think blackcurra­nt and poached plum nuanced with tobacco, graphite, hazelnuts and white pepper. And the flavours persist on the finish. This wine tastes more sophistica­ted than the price would suggest. Fabulous with steak frites. Score: 93

If you prefer crisp whites, reach for the 2019 Santa Rita “Secret Reserve” Sauvignon Blanc D.O. Casablanca from Chile, (LCBO 16189 $12.95 till

Feb. 28, reg. $14.95). Creamy lemon aromas lead to a dry, brisk attack of lemon-lime and white peach that swirls in like a cool breeze then leaves as quickly as it enters. The wine doesn’t linger, but it certainly delivers easy, thirst-quenching appeal. Bring on the fish tacos. Score: 90

For a very reasonable $8.84 per 750mL, you can enjoy a smart Spanish red that comes in a box. The NV Radio Boka Tempranill­o (LCBO 491118 $34.95 till Feb. 28, reg. $39.95/ 3000 mL) offers serious value with its vivid, lip-smacking flavours of blackberri­es and dusty cherries. It’s easy-drinking with a touch of texture on the finish that holds the fruit in place. Served with chorizo, it’s sensationa­l. Score: 92

The 2018 Revel Cab Noir Dark Red, VQA Ontario (LCBO 575662 $13.95 till Feb. 28, reg. $15.95) is local blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Baco Noir worth your attention. Each sip is silky smooth, slipping in with flavours of cherries jubilee edged with wild blueberrie­s, smoky notes and dark chocolate. Well-made and well-balanced wine that’s great with burgers. Score: 91

Those who hanker for wooded Chardonnay­s have a couple of bottles to choose from.

For a very creamy, rich style, reach for the 2019 “The Wanted Chard” Chardonnay

from Italy (LCBO 13634 $11.95 till Feb. 28, reg. $13.95). The scent calls to mind vanilla cupcakes with buttercrea­m icing, but the wine itself isn’t actually sweet. The flavours suggest baked Granny Smith apple, caramelize­d brown sugar, and cream—but drytasting. It’s full-bodied style to pair with fettuccine Alfredo or even just a nibble of cheese. Score: 91

Also wooded and toasty but a bit more restrained and elegant is 2019 Fetzer Sundial Chardonnay from California (LCBO 291674 $11.95 till Feb. 28, reg. $13.95). This classic white teems with aromas and flavours of orchard fruit laced with toasty-nutty notes and lit with lemon. An excellent buy — especially on sale. Fantastic with any fish dish. Score: 91

Back to bold reds, the 2018 Dona Paula Estate Malbec

from Uco Valley, Argentina (LCBO 394783 $12.95 till Feb. 28, reg. $15.95) over-delivers. It’s packed with black fruit — muddled blackberri­es, black cherry and damson — while graphite and stones underpin the fruit and a delicate floral lift calls to mind violets. Serve it with grilled meats or mushrooms. Score: 92

And the popular 2017 Apothic

Dark Red Blend from California (LCBO 392654 $14.95 till Feb. 28, reg. $16.95) tastes well-balanced and intense. Black cherries dunked in melting dark chocolate flavours taste rich, velvety and mouthcoati­ng. This bottle will definitely appeal to those who like big reds. Pour it with good quality dark chocolate or grilled meats. Score: 89

And fans of fine bubbly will want to know that the least expensive rosé Champagne is six dollars off right now. It’s the lovely NV Champagne Victoire Brut Rosé from France ($39.95 till Feb. 28, reg. $45.95). Shot through with tiny bubbles and shining a deep shade of salmon, this wine exudes the pretty perfume of summer berries and baked butter pastry. The attack is brisk, then quickly unfolds with lemon, red fruit and that touch of pastry again. Sublime with smoked salmon. Score: 91

But some wines on sale should be avoided, too. They include the thin and sour 2018 Albert Bichot Old Vines Bourgogne Pinot Noir from France (LCBO 166959 $17.95 till Feb. 28, reg. $19.95); the tart, dried-out-tasting 2018 Lacour Tourny Bordeaux Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon from France (LCBO 17447 $10.35 till Feb. 28 reg. 11.85); and the unpleasant­ly astringent 2017 “The Wanted Cab” Cabernet Sauvignon from Italy (LCBO 626309 $12.95 till Feb. 28 reg. $14.95).

Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer and a freelance contributi­ng columnist for the Star. Wineries occasional­ly sponsor segments on her YouTube series yet they have no role in the selection of the wines she chooses to review or her opinions of those wines. Reach her via email: carolyn@carolyneva­nshammond.com

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