Italian wines deserve a welcome ‘ciao’
Take a sip and its expression tastes emotive. Instantly captivating … But, like abstract art, looking for the concrete in a wine like this misses the point. Instead, let it wash in and yield to the experience. It will move you
This column pinpoints five exciting bottles now in the Italy section of the LCBO, ranging from a lit and lively vino spumante to a mesmerizing Barolo. But first, a bit of serious business.
The Canadian Centre on Substance Use and Addiction recently released new guidelines for drinking alcohol, recommending no more than two drinks per week for men and women.
As a wine critic, I provide a service to those who choose to drink. If you do drink, please know I always encourage you to do so responsibly and in moderation, especially in light of the new guidelines. In short, make every glass count, and I can help you do so by guiding you toward the best bottles on shelf. This week’s focus is Italy.
Italy has a long history of making marvellous wines. The country offers more than 330 legally defined wine styles from about 20 regions. So there’s a lot to discover. Here are five fabulous finds available now.
The NV Foss Marai “Marai de Marai” Extra Dry Vino Spumante from Veneto (Vintages Essential $19.95) is a delicious bubbly that darts in with bright pear and flickers with honeysuckle before tapering toward a cool, gently saline finish. The wine’s sweet fullness is shot through with bright, mouthwatering acidity that leaves the palate scraped clean. Score: 90
Also white but dry and still, is the 2020 Marchesi Antinori Bramito della Sala Chardonnay IGT from Umbria (Vintages Essentials $24.95). Steely-smoky scents tinged with bitter orange and dried apricot begin the experience. Then, the wine glides in with equal parts weight and poise. Mouth-filling flavours of mixed citrus laced with cantaloupe, toasted meringue and roasted hazelnut rush in then recede, leaving a dab of sweet butter on the finish. Score: 89
Uncork the 2017 Frescobaldi CastelGiocondo Brunello di Montalcino DOCG from Tuscany (Vintages Essential $54.95) for immediate pleasure. Each glassful starts with languid scents of dried figs and fruitcake and amarena cherries in syrup. Then, the wine sweeps in with brawny suggestions of cigar box, freshly turned earth and black olive as well as a touch of white pepper anchoring this wine’s wild cherry middle. A tidy espresso finish completes each sip. You could pay more for less when it comes to Brunello, which is a darling of collectors. Score: 91
Chianti can frequently be mediocre. But the 2019 Ricasoli Rocca Guicciarda Chianti Classico Riserva DOCG from Tuscany (Vintages Essential $24.95) is anything but average. It’s a classico, meaning it’s made from fruit grown in the oldest, most prime area of Chianti. It’s a riserva, which means it spent at least two years in barrel and three months in bottle before release. And it’s by Ricasoli — a trusted producer. The result is a wine that wafts with warm aromas of muddled cherries and dried earth with a touch of oregano. Then, a rush of velvety vinosity calls to mind poached cherries and dark chocolate, dried herbs and fresh fig, and a touch of black peppercorn. Long.
Score: 90
And then, there’s Barolo. Made from Nebbiolo grapes, Barolo can be tough and tannic, leaving you to wonder what the fuss is about. But it can also be seductive, suave, elegant and cerebral. Such is the case with the 2018 Ratti Marcenasco Barolo DOCG (Vintages $70.95). Released through Vintages and still on shelf in decent quantity, this wine a smart buy. But it won’t last.
The nose is mute. Like a finger pressed to the lips. But take a sip and its expression tastes emotive. Instantly captivating. You could try to tease apart its flavour and you’d probably find wild strawberry and violet, smoky tar and roses, cherry and a touch of toasted spice, cumin maybe. But, like abstract art, looking for the concrete in a wine like this misses the point. Instead, let it wash in and yield to the experience. It will move you. Score: 96
Here’s to Italy.
CAROLYN EVANS HAMMOND IS A TORONTO-BASED WINE WRITER AND A FREELANCE CONTRIBUTING COLUMNIST FOR THE STAR. WINERIES OCCASIONALLY SPONSOR SEGMENTS ON HER YOUTUBE SERIES YET THEY HAVE NO ROLE IN THE SELECTION OF THE WINES SHE CHOOSES TO REVIEW OR HER OPINIONS OF THOSE WINES. ALL PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE. REACH HER VIA EMAIL: CAROLYN@ CAROLYNEVANSHAMMOND.COM. PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY.